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Early Access
Routes in Cynical Pinnacle
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50 Shades of Green S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Amy, Good Gorilla T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Buffaloes in Space T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Center Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Center Route P1 Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Center Route P3 Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chip off the Old Buffalo T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Class Act T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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CMC Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Don't Fear The Boogie Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Green Piece T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hand Job (aka West Face) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hand Job Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lost at Sea T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Monkey in the Forest T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off-width Route TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Only the Lonely S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Rap Crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Rising Crescendo or Serpentine Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Rubber Ducky T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rubber Ducky P2 T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tough Turf T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Turf Spreader T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twist O' Flex T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wunsch's Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C0 |
| Type: | Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.42059, -105.25164 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,480 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Bill Duncan on Aug 22, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 1, 2026
Details
Per Josh: for the first time in at least 5 years, it appears we have nestlings at the peregrine falcon eyrie at Cathedral Spires! The breeding pair has been present and made attempts at nesting all those years but have not gotten this close to fledging a nest in that time.
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is the easiest way to the summit of Cynical Pinnacle. The crux is getting to the base of the route (see below). Climb a nice, stemming chimney, with a bit of offwidth at the top until you can mantle on to a very large ledge. (100') Next, climb some offwidth (5.8) to a right-angling crack that takes you to the NW corner of the pinnacle about 50 vertical feet below the summit. Continue climbing the crack (1 or 2 5.7 moves) until you reach easier ground and the summit.
Location
This route is on the north side of the pinnacle. Hike around to the right side and scramble up the boulder and bush laden gully until you see the obvious chimney. This requires a bit of bushwhacking to be sure.
You can rap back down to the very large ledge, where there are anchors that get you to the ground. But why don't you just rap of the west face instead and save yourself the bushwhack? You can reach the ground with one double rope rappel off the west face. This does require some scrambling after the rap, but it is an easy way off.
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