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Routes in West Side- Backbone Ridge

Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: travis?
Page Views: 1,537 total, 12/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Jun 29, 2007
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

This route starts in the middle of the face and works its way up the left arete. The crux is a right hand throw to the bad arete, after securing a left hand crimp on the arete. Bringing the feet up over the lip of the roof may also be a comittment crux for some.

Location

About 25 feet past nameless arete. A 5 foot tall slab/face capped with a 1.5 foot horizontal roof, which then has a slightly concave/vertical 10 foot face atop it. Also about 5 feet right of a large tree that hugs the cliff.

Protection

Pads, spotters.

Photos

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
After many attempts at this climb, I have concluded that it is a forced contrivity. You can paste your feet all over the dihedral, but you can't use the large jug, forcing you into terrible, barn-doory movement for no reason. I say, use the large jug in the dihedral for a fun V3. Jan 11, 2012
Brian Runnells  
  V4
Ok, the other descriptions were a bit confusing. Nov 25, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
for sure. i believe that is how everyone does the problem your-narcness Nov 16, 2008
Brian Runnells  
  V4
Once your left hand is on the arete, can't you just climb straight up the arete and not mess with the small holds out right?? Nov 16, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Great problem. Worked on it for awhile. Sep 8, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
Just to confirm what i already said... There are no holds for about 4 feet and then theres some slopey crap but the other problem is that there arent any feet over the lip to get high and lock those holds off. gave several goes just to check it out. I would love to hear otherwords. Jul 6, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
i was looking but there's just no holds on the face after the 2 good sidepulls... i mean like blanky mc blank. unless im missing something. did u see something i didnt? Jun 26, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Has anyone ever tried the direct face yet. Looks good, but hard. New project? Jun 24, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V5
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V5
yup, when i was on these problems a few weeks ago, i found no left hand crimp on 'dangle'. ended up matching on the sloper (left hand up there first then right) and then using a small intermediate sidepull edge for the left and moving feet up. i was wondering what the heck that beta was all about, but it makes sense that the problem has changed. but hey whatever works... Jun 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
wow that was a quick response. haha. yeah it looked like it would still go without to much difficulty. wierd rock wedged in the landing zone. looked as if it could be knocked out of there but who knows. Anyways i thought left out was total class. bravo. Also, has anyone gone in the warmer months? are the bugs unbearable, rock ungrabbable, ect? Jun 17, 2008
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
I was there a month ago and thought the crimp was gone as well. Turns out the moves are still the same but maybe my description is off by one move. Jun 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
  V5
i agree that it was harder than both. I have it at 5+ where the other to i have standard v5. super super quality problem. didnt try dangle yet but it looks as if the crimp the description speaks of is broken. Jun 17, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  V5
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  V5
Nice lines Travis. I looked at both variations of these (this one and Dangle) last summer, but they looked very improbable so I passed on them. Got on them last night finally, a bit humid, alone- no spotter, with skeeters harassing me and rednecks blasting Rush 2112 from the campsite below, so not perfect conditions but I would say they both were more tricky and committing than suggested. Fortunately they are not too tall. They were more tricky than Huston Arete (V5ish?) and Split Personality (V5-6ish?) for me but hey we're all a bit different and each day is different. Again, nice lines and great additions. May 23, 2008