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Left out

V4, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 36 votes
FA: travis?
Wisconsin > South > Governor Dodge SP > Group Camps > 4. Group Camp B > Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge
Warning Access Issue: DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE CAMPSITE DetailsDrop down

Description

This route starts in the middle of the face and works its way up the left arete. The crux is a right hand throw to the bad arete, after securing a left hand crimp on the arete. Bringing the feet up over the lip of the roof may also be a comittment crux for some.

Location

About 25 feet past nameless arete. A 5 foot tall slab/face capped with a 1.5 foot horizontal roof, which then has a slightly concave/vertical 10 foot face atop it. Also about 5 feet right of a large tree that hugs the cliff.

Protection

Pads, spotters.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John coming around to the arete
[Hide Photo] John coming around to the arete
Chris nearing the top
[Hide Photo] Chris nearing the top
Boulder Bash 2011
[Hide Photo] Boulder Bash 2011
Left out.  Cool problem.
[Hide Photo] Left out. Cool problem.
Ross attempting the line
[Hide Photo] Ross attempting the line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

chris tregge
Madison WI
  V5
[Hide Comment] Nice lines Travis. I looked at both variations of these (this one and Dangle) last summer, but they looked very improbable so I passed on them. Got on them last night finally, a bit humid, alone- no spotter, with skeeters harassing me and rednecks blasting Rush 2112 from the campsite below, so not perfect conditions but I would say they both were more tricky and committing than suggested. Fortunately they are not too tall. They were more tricky than Huston Arete (V5ish?) and Split Personality (V5-6ish?) for me but hey we're all a bit different and each day is different. Again, nice lines and great additions. May 23, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] i agree that it was harder than both. I have it at 5+ where the other to i have standard v5. super super quality problem. didnt try dangle yet but it looks as if the crimp the description speaks of is broken. Jun 17, 2008
Travis Melin
Portland, OR
  V4-5
[Hide Comment] I was there a month ago and thought the crimp was gone as well. Turns out the moves are still the same but maybe my description is off by one move. Jun 17, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] wow that was a quick response. haha. yeah it looked like it would still go without to much difficulty. wierd rock wedged in the landing zone. looked as if it could be knocked out of there but who knows. Anyways i thought left out was total class. bravo. Also, has anyone gone in the warmer months? are the bugs unbearable, rock ungrabbable, ect? Jun 17, 2008
chris tregge
Madison WI
  V5
[Hide Comment] yup, when i was on these problems a few weeks ago, i found no left hand crimp on 'dangle'. ended up matching on the sloper (left hand up there first then right) and then using a small intermediate sidepull edge for the left and moving feet up. i was wondering what the heck that beta was all about, but it makes sense that the problem has changed. but hey whatever works... Jun 17, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
[Hide Comment] Has anyone ever tried the direct face yet. Looks good, but hard. New project? Jun 24, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] i was looking but there's just no holds on the face after the 2 good sidepulls... i mean like blanky mc blank. unless im missing something. did u see something i didnt? Jun 26, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] Just to confirm what i already said... There are no holds for about 4 feet and then theres some slopey crap but the other problem is that there arent any feet over the lip to get high and lock those holds off. gave several goes just to check it out. I would love to hear otherwords. Jul 6, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
[Hide Comment] Great problem. Worked on it for awhile. Sep 8, 2008
[Hide Comment] Once your left hand is on the arete, can't you just climb straight up the arete and not mess with the small holds out right?? Nov 16, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
  V5
[Hide Comment] for sure. i believe that is how everyone does the problem your-narcness Nov 16, 2008
[Hide Comment] Ok, the other descriptions were a bit confusing. Nov 25, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
[Hide Comment] After many attempts at this climb, I have concluded that it is a forced contrivity. You can paste your feet all over the dihedral, but you can't use the large jug, forcing you into terrible, barn-doory movement for no reason. I say, use the large jug in the dihedral for a fun V3. Jan 11, 2012