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Routes in West Side- Backbone Ridge

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 75 total, 1/month
Shared By: John W. Knoernschild on Dec 2, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Start by using both cracks. Deep fingers get you into the climb. Climb past wobbly block on right. The right crack becomes to small to get fingers in and the left crack stops for a bit. Layback the small arete on the right crack and move up. Reachy moves to topout. The crux is in your mind. This thing gets scary.

Location

the 2 cracks left of "Midwest Hardcore"

Protection

2-4 pads

Photos

sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
kind of what I figured. word up. Dec 4, 2008
I've used the torch at DL but I'd hold off at dodge. The rock is already soft and sandy and heating it would make it worse. Plus, many of the holds would be soaked through and more likely to break off anyways. I'd vote for saving the winter runs for the lake. Dec 4, 2008
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I've used the blowtorch technique on granite and it has worked well. Not sure about sandstone, however. Exfoliation would be a major concern. As a rule, never blowtorch flakes or other loose-ish holds because they'll break off if heated.

Now if we were talking about DL quartzite, I think you could use a flamethrower and the rock would be fine. Dec 4, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
You got it Remo. Any other takers? I'll be picking up a 20ft x 20ft tarp this week.

sweaty, I have no idea about the blow torch thing. Dec 4, 2008
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
i think with some rock surfaces you can take blowtorches to them to melt ice ect.? is that not recomended with sandstone or doesnt it matter? or is that not recomended at all? Dec 3, 2008
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
Just remember to bring your snow brooms! Dec 3, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Count me in guys. A little snow never hurt anybody right? The friction is just too good in below freezing temps to pass up. Dec 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Rockin! PM me your phone number and I will call you when we think about going. Dec 3, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
I like the way you think. Count me in! Dec 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
LOL. So was I.

No need to be afraid of a little snow. Paul and I figured if we bring a large tarp to put the pads down on and keep the area we are in dry, we can boulder all winter long when the temps are right. Dec 3, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Just messin' John. I'll save "50 Words for Choss" for my next FA. There is plenty of choss at the Dodge, I am sure I'll find a line to christen. With this snow though it might have to wait until spring... Dec 3, 2008
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
 
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
 
Thx for the info Remo. FA has been changed.

Actually Chris, I thought about your name for a bit, and then decided it needed something....more.

If you avoid the wobbly block in the beginning, and also avoid the flake in the top of the crack to the right (there's and "X" on it in the pic), it's all good.

I gave it a decent scrubbin' before we left for the day. Dec 3, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Well, after watching/spotting John on it I think everyone kind of just left it at that... He was pulling on some pretty wobbly blocks and hollow-sounding flakes... Nice send. Dec 2, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
So John sandbagged everyone eh. I like your name Chris, although Dire Straight is a good description of the route. Dec 2, 2008
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
John definitely had the first and only ascent of November 29th, 2008 though. With authority! I proposed naming it "50 Words for Choss" but was apparently ignored. Dec 2, 2008
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
John good work man, the cracks are super fun and no doubt scary, but has been climbed before by many. No one really knows who the FA is of this, maybe Groth and company in the day? Since it was never posted you get naming rights. Dec 2, 2008