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Areas in Group Camp B

A Taste of Choss Wall 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Backbone Ridge 0 / 0 / 0 / 67 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 67
Plan B Area 0 / 0 / 0 / 32 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32
Elevation: 1,059 ft
GPS: 43.05, -90.095 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 42,605 total, 315/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE
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Description

Bouldering at these areas first began in the mid 80's with visits from Dave Groth and others. Mike Mcarron spent time here. It is a small bouldering area filled with blocks and boulders of hard grey sandstone. The quality of the rock is very good for the park, though spots still remain iffy here and there. The bouldering consists mainly of just under and just over vertical lines, though there are a few steep ones out there. The problems are host to an array of holds. Pockets, crimpers, slopers, pinches- you name it. For the most part the climbing here flows well, and with some of the highballs it is more like climbing a route than a "problem". There are plenty of shorter problems, but the highballs dominate the pine woods with a broken down palace sort of atmosphere. It is a very nice hang as long as there isn't a troop of boy scouts screaming and running everywhere.

I divided the area into two sections. First the Plan B area and second the Backbone ridge area. These two are very close to each other, and share the main trail up the hill. Plan B will be to your left.

The problems lay on both south and north sides, so conditions will vary. Very nice in the fall, and not too bad in the summer. The Back wall gets great afternoon sun.

As always if anyone has more accurate/historic info/names why let me know.

There are also some possible TR problems on the far side of the bluff. Hike past the Plan B area and continue near the top or on the top. Eventually you will come across the out crops.

Getting There

From the main office continue straight towards the group camp sites. Drive past the showers on your left and continue to the parking area at site B. On the weekends in the summer these sites are almost always filled. Be courtuous and ask to "hike through". Never yet encountered difficulty with that. Walk straight through the site and go either side of the boulder there. There are two steep trails that will put you at the same place on the ridge. On the weekdays it is almost always quiet and peaceful. 90% of the visitors to the park go to the lakes for swimming, boating, and fishing leaving this section relitively remote. Most of the landings are flat but not all. The older I get, the thicker I like my pads to be. Some of the highballs are kind of committer at the top. Some may prefer short topropes. Long chunks of webbing would be useful for that.



ED NOTE: I am leaving JJ's description above as-is for historical sake, but please note that as of 2009 the park rangers have asked us NOT TO HIKE THROUGH THE CAMPSITES if anyone is camping there. Please see thread or map below for alternate ways to get to the problems. Chris E.

Also I am splitting the Group B bouldering page into it's seperate areas due to the volume of problems. Hopefully this will make it easier to find what you are looking for and be better organized. The 3 areas are Plan B Area, Backbone Ridge West Side, and Backbone Ridge East Side. See below:

100 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Group Camp B

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
One Hand Clapping
Boulder
V0+ 4+
Seperation Anxiety
Boulder
V0+ 4+
High Anxiety
Boulder
V1-2 5
Picasso Right
Boulder
V2 5+
Ashmatica
Boulder
V2 5+
Scarete
Boulder
V3 6A
Picasso center
Boulder
V3 6A
Face Left of Wright's Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
Get the Hell Outta Dodge
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
Hangman
Boulder
V5- 6C
Nameless
Boulder
V5 6C
Split Personality
Boulder
V5 6C
Venom
Boulder
V7 7A+
Highly Executed
Boulder
V8 7B
Sandstone Violence
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
One Hand Clapping Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V0 4 Boulder
Seperation Anxiety Plan B Area V0+ 4+ Boulder
High Anxiety Plan B Area V0+ 4+ Boulder
Picasso Right Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V1-2 5 Boulder
Ashmatica Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge V2 5+ Boulder
Scarete Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V2 5+ Boulder
Picasso center Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V3 6A Boulder
Face Left of Wright's Arete Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V3 6A Boulder
Get the Hell Outta Dodge Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge V4 6B Boulder
Hangman Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Nameless Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V5- 6C Boulder
Split Personality Plan B Area V5 6C Boulder
Venom Plan B Area V5 6C Boulder
Highly Executed Backbone Ridge > E Side- Backbone Ridge V7 7A+ Boulder
Sandstone Violence Backbone Ridge > W Side- Backbone Ridge V8 7B Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Group Camp B »

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Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Yeah the approach from anywhere except through camp B sucks this time of year. If nobody is camped there, that's the easiest. I came up from the A side last weekend as there were folks camping at B and it was terrible.

The WCA is working on coming up with a better plan than the restroom approach while also avoiding camp B. Stay tuned. Come to the comp Sept 17th! Sep 8, 2016
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Those berry bushes grow fast - so the informal trails tend to get grown over in the summer. The best approach is to park where you did, then head directly up to High Anxiety. But this can be hard to pick out when there are still leaves on the trees. Sep 8, 2016
Alexander Stathis
Athens, GA
Alexander Stathis   Athens, GA
Is this approach beta still accurate? We parked at what we thought were the bathrooms just after the left hand turn to Campsite A (there were showers there also).

We followed what we thought was the marked trail at the back of the parking lot. It started between two disability parking signs, was rather overgrown, and ended about 20 feet in. We bushwacked through a lot of thorny bushes to the base of the cliff and found what we thought was the cave. We headed right from the cave around the base of the cliff bushwacking through a lot more thorny bushes and eventually arrived at the top of the cliff, kept hiking in what we thought was the same direction, and ended up at Press It Out. Needless to say, I wouldn't recommend anyone do this, it seriously sucked.

When we hiked out we tried to the find the trail from below Press It Out to the road. This was arguably more comfortable than our approach, but we did still have to hike through about 15-20ft of thorny bushes in a small valley near the road. Maybe we missed the nice trail? Sep 8, 2016
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Cool video...Egg, you make SV look so much better though. I dont like to watch people struggle like this. Jun 14, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Found this sweet video on Vimeo, hope the author doesn't mind my linking it. Nice job Brent, great video!

vimeo.com/9326114 Jul 19, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Great Job Chris! Thanks for your hard work sir Apr 15, 2009
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
Last week when I was in the main building buying my new pass for this year I was speaking with a female ranger. I let her know that I was a climber and said thank you for letting use their beautiful park. She kinda just said that they don't necessarily condone climbing but do know that we are out there and would like us to continue to keep the areas clean and stuff like that. Apr 13, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Correct, on that trail (really a nice hike) you go by the top of Barrel Ridge which would be to your north (left if hiking east). Apr 12, 2009
That was running through my head as well when we were parked at Barrel Ridge, and I can see the rangers not wanting people parking on the grass like that. If this ever becomes an issue it may be possible to approach from the south by parking at the pull out for what I believe is the Gold Mine trail along the road to Twin Valley Campground, and hiking along that trail. It'd be a long approach, but its better than nothing. Apr 12, 2009
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Nick-- thanks for posting this. I have been at least moderately concerned about this issue since last fall. One day this spring, I was one of 11 (ELEVEN!!!) cars parked to climb at Group B. All it will take is one camping family or group to complain about climbers there to get it looked at. Likewise, please don't yell expletives when you fall off your project. That will make any camping parent cringe and probably complain (yes I've been within earshot of that).

TO REITERATE: 2 options for parking for Backbone/Group B: Park at the bathroom and walk directly uphill. When you get to the cave walk along the ridge to the right. Alternatively, turn left when the road forks (towards site A) and park along the road on the right and walk directly uphill. You will come to Press It Out and then walk northwards to rest of the climbs.

FYI I was parked along the road for Barrel Ridge earlier this spring and when I was walking down from the ridge (sans pad), a ranger was inspecting my car. Asked me if he could help me at all. I said no, I was fine, and he replied that generally the only cars parked on the side of the road were people that were in trouble. I'm still not sure if that is cool or not. Apr 12, 2009
If there are campers in Group Site B do NOT walk through the site!!!! Please either park at the paved parking lot with the multiple bathrooms and walk up the hill or park in the gravel parking lot and head down the road a bit and then up the hill. Park staff were VERY concerned about this! Apr 12, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
The gate for Hickory Ridge is open! Mar 31, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Hey Trav, what we found works well is to drive towards Group site A. Park on the road(doesn't seem like a problem) before the camp and hike straight up the hill. You get to the back of the Plan B ridge near Press it out. From there you can get to the boulders easily. Short approach for sure, and less awkward. Aug 17, 2008

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