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Routes in Middle East Wall

272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dessert S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Did Lewinsky Swallow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fisting for Pleasure and Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Human Sacrifice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lingerie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sherrif, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleeping with the Fish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superfund/Rimetime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Theresa's Lingere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 85'
Page Views: 2,266 total, 18/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Spectacular finger crack!

The first 25 feet are insecure and pumpy with delicate footwork. Above the locks improve greatly and it is possible to reast via stemming over to Sex Party. It's not over though....

Chain anchor.

Location

Right of Sex Party.

Protection

rack to 1" mostly small cams and nuts.

Photos

Dane
  5.12a/b
Dane  
  5.12a/b
Lingerie was originally never envisioned or rated as a stemming problem or a top rope. Lingerie gets rated from 5.11a to .12a depending on finger size and if you stem off of Sex party, which is easy to do. A bit contrived as a straight in crack but one of the best at Vantage done in that manner. Originally, when the crack and edges were still intact it was the "big brother" of Jihad. Dec 17, 2008