Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Russ Johnson, Byron Bloomquist, Jeannot Poirot, 1987
Page Views: 751 total · 48/month
Shared By: Justin Pucci on Jun 8, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Voluntary raptor closure Details

Description

This may be the best offwidth in Vantage by far. It’s clean, sustained, and offers a range of widths that keeps you thinking.

Start atop a small ledge in the right-facing corner. The crack begins with some fists, but quickly turns into butterflies and hand-fist stacks. Unless you have small knees, you won’t be able to get into the crack for a solid knee jam until it widens a bit further.

Once inside, work your way up the ever-widening crack through some minor waves before getting into the three large squeeze chimney waves toward the top.

The location of the crux is somewhat body dependent. Most will be fine down low and again up high once into the squeeze chimney section, but will find the middle section challenging. If you’re solid making progress on knee scums, then maybe the two largest waves in the chimney will be your crux.

This offwidth is perfect for bumping the bigger cams with only a few sections up top that requires a pull and re-placement above you.

There are chains to the left of the top of the crack that you can get to so you don’t have to top out through the loose blocks above. If you’re setting up a top rope, then leave a piece in (BD #8 or equivalent) at the top to redirect the rope.

The original rating for this route is 5.9 and that’s what’s in the current guidebook, but compared to Wide and Curvy 5.9 (an offwidth right next door) from the same FA team, this is easily a grade higher. I am posting it as a 5.10a/b to be consistent with the softer grading that is prevalent in this area. If enough people climb it and rate it differently, then I will update the page.

Location

The beautiful wavy crack in the right-facing corner just left of Coup d’Etat 5.11a and Human Sacrifice 5.10c.

Protection

Gear from 4-12”. BD #4-8 or equivalent. There are also a few decent Big Bro placements in the #1-3 range.

Photos

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