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Routes in Middle East Wall

272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dessert S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Did Lewinsky Swallow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fisting for Pleasure and Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Human Sacrifice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lingerie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peeing with a Boner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sherrif, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleeping with the Fish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superfund/Rimetime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Theresa's Lingere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 85'
Page Views: 3,349 total · 25/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

An interesting crack climb just left of Desert Dessert.

Start in a steep finger crack which widens slightly before switching cracks to the right (crux) and finishing on hand crack with some loose rock and face holds.

Bolted anchor.

Location

between Human Sacrifice (bolted 10.c) and Desert Dessert (bolted 11.a)

Protection

Mostly small tcu's. Crux is small stoppers and micro cams, a hand sized piece for higher up but nothing bigger than 2".

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
What a fun crack pitch! Burly start that doesn't let up much after that. The top pod referenced in the prior comment also takes a small stopper if you don't want to haul up a #4 camalot. I would agree that the top is lichenated, somewhat loose and somewhat runout. Welcome to Vantage. Feb 16, 2016
Jacob Smith
Seattle, WA
 
Jacob Smith   Seattle, WA
 
The top section can be a little run out, a #4 C4 fits amazingly in a weird pocket and is worth bringing for that reason alone Apr 7, 2014

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