Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Middle East Wall
|
272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Angel with Armor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Arkansas Love Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Closet Catamite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Coup d' Grace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Creeping Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Desert Dessert S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Did Lewinsky Swallow? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Disaster Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Drag Queens in Spandex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
|
|
Dynamic Instability T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Emerald City (aka PWB) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Fearsome Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Fist for Pleasure and for Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Haboob T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Human Sacrifice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Kashmir S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Left Handed Monkey Wrench T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Lingerie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Love Canal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Merry Bullman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mitch’s Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Mr Squeaky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Mr. Gorbonifar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Never enough Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Night Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Protein Infusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
Psycho Babble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Rump Release T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Sleeping with the Fish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Small but Perky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Spank my Ass and call me Sally T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Stripper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Superfund T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Theresa's Lingerie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Throwing Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Tower of Babble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Trundle Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Wave Function T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dane Burns, Dave Fulton (1987) |
| Page Views: | 1,204 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | slim on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Voluntary raptor closure
Details
Please avoid climbing on the far western side of Middle East Wall where there may be an active nest site on the route "Australian Dick Wrestling", approximately through July 15, 2019. More information is being gathered on the specific species.
Description
MF Snowboarder is a great warmup route at the Middle East wall. The Select guidebook only gives this one star, which is presumably due to the original route going all of the way to the rim.
Begin 5 feet right of 'Jihad' and scramble up a small pedestal to a very nice rattly finger crack in chocolate rock. Jam this crack as it widens to thin hands, with the usual Vantage stemming and barn-door foot jamming. A short pod and some slightly blocky climbing will get you to the anchors.
Overall the rock quality is very good for Vantage, but it still is Vantage so be a little careful.
The original finish involves climbing above the anchors over a few steep, not 100% but not super-loose blocks. On top, there are a couple bolts in random blocks, set back pretty far from the edge. Bring long webbing for this option, or just stop at the end of the good climbing where a nice set of bolted anchors gets you back down easily.
Begin 5 feet right of 'Jihad' and scramble up a small pedestal to a very nice rattly finger crack in chocolate rock. Jam this crack as it widens to thin hands, with the usual Vantage stemming and barn-door foot jamming. A short pod and some slightly blocky climbing will get you to the anchors.
Overall the rock quality is very good for Vantage, but it still is Vantage so be a little careful.
The original finish involves climbing above the anchors over a few steep, not 100% but not super-loose blocks. On top, there are a couple bolts in random blocks, set back pretty far from the edge. Bring long webbing for this option, or just stop at the end of the good climbing where a nice set of bolted anchors gets you back down easily.
Location
MF Snowboarder starts in an off fingers crack above a small pedestal, one crack to the right of 'Jihad' and just to the left of the detached column sport route 'Desert Dessert'.
Protection
Typical vantage rack from thin fingers to big hands, with an emphasis on off-fingers to thin hands (ie .5 Camalots to #1 Camalots). Large stoppers, and likely hexes, work pretty well in the featured crack. New bolted anchors instead of climbing the last bit of chossy rock, only to ponder how best to get back to the base.... Less is more in this case, indeed.
1 Comment