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Routes in Middle East Wall

272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dessert S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Did Lewinsky Swallow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fisting for Pleasure and Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Human Sacrifice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lingerie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peeing with a Boner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sherrif, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleeping with the Fish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superfund/Rimetime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Theresa's Lingere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 46 total · 10/month
Shared By: slim on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

MF Snowboarder is a great warmup route at the Middle East wall. The Select guidebook only gives this one star, which is presumably due to the original route going all of the way to the rim.

Begin 5 feet right of 'Jihad' and scramble up a small pedestal to a very nice rattly finger crack in chocolate rock. Jam this crack as it widens to thin hands, with the usual Vantage stemming and barn-door foot jamming. A short pod and some slightly blocky climbing will get you to the anchors.

Overall the rock quality is very good for Vantage, but it still is Vantage so be a little careful.

The original finish involves climbing above the anchors over a few steep, not 100% but not super-loose blocks. On top, there are a couple bolts in random blocks, set back pretty far from the edge. Bring long webbing for this option, or just stop at the end of the good climbing where a nice set of bolted anchors gets you back down easily.

Location

MF Snowboarder starts in an off fingers crack above a small pedestal, one crack to the right of 'Jihad' and just to the left of the detached column sport route 'Desert Dessert'.

Protection

Typical vantage rack from thin fingers to big hands, with an emphasis on off-fingers to thin hands (ie .5 Camalots to #1 Camalots). Large stoppers, and likely hexes, work pretty well in the featured crack. New bolted anchors instead of climbing the last bit of chossy rock, only to ponder how best to get back to the base.... Less is more in this case, indeed.

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