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Routes in Middle East Wall

272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dessert S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Did Lewinsky Swallow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fisting for Pleasure and Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Human Sacrifice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lingerie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peeing with a Boner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sherrif, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleeping with the Fish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superfund/Rimetime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Theresa's Lingere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bill Robins, FFA Jim Yoder
Page Views: 603 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ethan Henderson on Nov 30, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Start up a dihedral like feature face climbing and using the very thin crack for protection.

Pull over the easy roof/bulge this will deposit you on a small ledge.

From this ledge continue up the thin crack using jams, face holds and laybacks. There are plenty of good rests/stances along the way. About 2/3 of the way up this you will encounter the crux moves which involve a layback/jam and some face moves.

Location

Before you hit the "main" part of the wall look for a small roof leading to a very thin crack with a chain anchor on top.

Protection

Gear to 1.5" mostly smaller.

Make sure to include micro cams (black/blue Alien)

Chain anchor (Easily reached from above to TR/Rap)

Photos

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