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Routes in Middle East Wall

272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desert Dessert S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Did Lewinsky Swallow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fisting for Pleasure and Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Human Sacrifice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lingerie T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peeing with a Boner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sherrif, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sleeping with the Fish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Superfund/Rimetime T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Theresa's Lingere T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 84'
Page Views: 4,556 total, 35/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description


Although the crack looks splitter from below, the abundance of face holds and stems makes it difficult to climb in good jam fashion. Although a bit contrived, it is more interesting to only jam and to not stem over to Lingerie (this way it actually feels like 10.a).

Either way, fun climb.

Use chain anchor to the right, above Lingerie.

Location

just right of Savage Heart, left of Lingerie in a right facing corner.

Protection

rack to 3"

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Great crack pitch. But highly disagree with calling it a 5.8. No way. If you're a 5.8 trad leader and you try to onsight lead this (which is what pitch grades are based on, an onsight lead), it will not feel 5.8, but every bit the 5.10a rating it is given. Feb 16, 2016
Agree with Dane, about 5.8/5.8+ for normal Washington trad grades, although fairly true to grade for Vantage.

Extra number ones, or similar size hexes would be nice. Hexes place well and seem less likely to shatter the outside layer of rock.

No need for the number 4. Protects well without it, or you can clip a bolt on the neighbouring route with a long sling from the stanve where you'd place it Sep 7, 2015
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :) Mar 26, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage. Mar 21, 2014
Dane
  5.8+
Dane  
  5.8+
Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years. Dec 17, 2008