Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dane Burns and Jay Koopsen 84'
Page Views: 5,038 total · 35/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


66 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description


Although the crack looks splitter from below, the abundance of face holds and stems makes it difficult to climb in good jam fashion. Although a bit contrived, it is more interesting to only jam and to not stem over to Lingerie (this way it actually feels like 10.a).

Either way, fun climb.

Use chain anchor to the right, above Lingerie.

Location

just right of Savage Heart, left of Lingerie in a right facing corner.

Protection

rack to 3"

Photos

Dane
  5.8+
Dane  
  5.8+
Another climb (like a zillion of them at Vantage) that gets easier if you stem out of the crack. BTW we first rated this one 5.8 if stayed in the crack and actually jammed. FWIW the FA was done by Dave Fulton and not Jay Koopsen as many of the guide books have reported in error over the years. Dec 17, 2008
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
This is one of the best cracks at the grade in Vantage. Mar 21, 2014
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
You'll need gear in a 0.75 - 3 range. You can take a #4 with you which you'll likely place near the top, but you can do without it if you feel confident climbing at the grade. Extra #1s are useful :) Mar 26, 2014
Agree with Dane, about 5.8/5.8+ for normal Washington trad grades, although fairly true to grade for Vantage.

Extra number ones, or similar size hexes would be nice. Hexes place well and seem less likely to shatter the outside layer of rock.

No need for the number 4. Protects well without it, or you can clip a bolt on the neighbouring route with a long sling from the stanve where you'd place it Sep 7, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Great crack pitch. But highly disagree with calling it a 5.8. No way. If you're a 5.8 trad leader and you try to onsight lead this (which is what pitch grades are based on, an onsight lead), it will not feel 5.8, but every bit the 5.10a rating it is given. Feb 16, 2016
Kyle McCrohan
Brier, WA
  5.9
Kyle McCrohan   Brier, WA
  5.9
It seemed like most of the climb was 0.75 and 0.5 cams, so if you've only got a few of them, place them wisely and look for the wider spots to get in other gear. Pretty consistently thin hands, much better crack than many of the Sunshine Wall classics like Air Guitar. May 4, 2018