Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Tony Miller, Matt Steele, 1994|
|Page Views:||190 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||geoff georges on Sep 26, 2020|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
There must be some story behind this route, because in the same year these two did a bolted route in the same place that was called Pudding Time that was chopped. As I was climbing it, it was obvious that some of the bolts could have been not placed near a crack, but in other spots where it would be very hard to protect it would be nice to have a bolt, and the anchor was chopped. So I added a anchor, but it is still very hard to protect in some places. Now this cracks me up because trad people chop bolts, but on trad climbs where the crack is thin, there are sometimes many pitons, including many on the Middle East wall itself.
It is 10d in the book, but I thought in comparison to other 10d's and 11a's it was technically tricky and crazy burly for 10d.
I would give this route 3 stars for climbing especially the roof moves, it is just fucked up at the moment.
I did some cleaning on this and it is less chossy now on the lower part, the upper half is solid rock.