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Merry Bullman
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Middle East Wall
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272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Angel with Armor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Arkansas Love Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Closet Catamite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Coup d' Grace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creeping Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Dessert S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Did Lewinsky Swallow? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disaster Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drag Queens in Spandex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dynamic Instability T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Emerald City (aka PWB) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fearsome Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fist for Pleasure and for Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Haboob T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Human Sacrifice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kashmir S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left Handed Monkey Wrench T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lingerie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Love Canal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Merry Bullman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mitch’s Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mr Squeaky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. Gorbonifar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Never enough Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Night Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Protein Infusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Psycho Babble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rump Release T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleeping with the Fish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Small but Perky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spank my Ass and call me Sally T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stripper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Superfund T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Theresa's Lingerie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Throwing Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tower of Babble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trundle Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wave Function T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tony Miller, Matt Steele, 1994 |
| Page Views: | 514 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Sep 26, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Voluntary raptor closure
Details
Description
There must be some story behind this route, because in the same year these two did a bolted route in the same place that was called Pudding Time that was chopped. As I was climbing it, it was obvious that some of the bolts could have been not placed near a crack, but in other spots where it would be very hard to protect it would be nice to have a bolt, and the anchor was chopped. So I added a anchor, but it is still very hard to protect in some places. Now this cracks me up because trad people chop bolts, but on trad climbs where the crack is thin, there are sometimes many pitons, including many on the Middle East wall itself.
It is 10d in the book, but I thought in comparison to other 10d's and 11a's it was technically tricky and crazy burly for 10d.
I would give this route 3 stars for climbing especially the roof moves, it is just fucked up at the moment.
I did some cleaning on this and it is less chossy now on the lower part, the upper half is solid rock.
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