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Routes in Middle East Wall
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272 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After Shock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Angel with Armor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Appo's Last Revenge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Arkansas Love Story T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blinded by the Light S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Butcher of Baghdad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Closet Catamite T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Coup d' Grace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crazy Fingers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creeping Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desert Dessert S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Did Lewinsky Swallow? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Disaster Factor T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Drag Queens in Spandex T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Dynamic Instability T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elders, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Electric Shock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Emerald City (aka PWB) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fearsome Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fist for Pleasure and for Profit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Focal Point S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Freak of the Week T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gotta Be Smokin' T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Haboob T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Human Sacrifice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jihad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Kashmir S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Left Handed Monkey Wrench T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Left Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lingerie T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Love Canal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Merry Bullman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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MF Snowboarder T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mitch’s Climb T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mr Squeaky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. Gorbonifar T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Never enough Stew T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Night Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Protein Infusion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Psycho Babble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rump Release T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Savage Heart S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sex Party T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sleeping with the Fish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slim And Curvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Small but Perky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spank my Ass and call me Sally T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Stripper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Superfund T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Theresa's Lingerie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Throwing Stones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tower of Babble T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trundle Seat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wave Function T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide and Curvy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Geoff Georges, 2/1/2020 |
| Page Views: | 514 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Aug 8, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Voluntary raptor closure
Details
Please avoid climbing on the far western side of Middle East Wall where there may be an active nest site on the route "Australian Dick Wrestling", approximately through July 15, 2019. More information is being gathered on the specific species.
The Pandemic looms
I explored this face in 2018 and decided it seemed worth trying to make a route out of it in 2020. Starts with face climbing using crack on the left for pro, there is one descent # .3 and #2 placement and then arete climbing past 6 bolts. The 10a grade is for the upper crack.
Protection
#.3 or .4 for first piece and #2 protects start deep in, 6 bolts on the face, mostly finger size cams for the top. If you want to place gear after the last bolt you will need the smallest cam, mine is the grey BD-C3, but it’s better to move up and get a better placement.I put a chain anchor and there is a single bolt at the very top for access from above.
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