Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 809 total · 6/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on May 3, 2007
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Crux is pulling the roof move. Nice crack, edges, and roof line to the left of Green Ledges route. Low down start in left most crack (another route if you stay in this crack) then after maybe 10 Ft maximum make rightwards move utilizing small but sharp and positive pulls up and under the roof. There is somewhat of a sucker rest standing on a major horizontal under the roof. Above the roof the crack continues with major horizontals for the feet and one passes near an old tree stump sticking out.

Location

On the same buttress of rock that "Green Ledges" route resides in Minor Mass area. The route is to the left of "Green Ledges"

Protection

Excellent small to medium wires and small cams all the way.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Tricky little number! Very small parallel crack to work with. Micro cams help. Aug 6, 2010
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.9+
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.9+
I agree Nick! Took me a while to "unlock" the crux moves. I distinctly remember tweaking out trying to get some decent gear before committing to pulling the roof. I think I had 3, 33% pieces, with the hopes that one might hold. Micro's or balnutz would have been nice! The top of the climb eases up and is just fun. Dec 29, 2011
Aawait  
I thought this climb was pretty fun.

GEAR BETA: found a pretty good microcam placement in the roof(blue alien) then got a bomber nut placement just above the roof. May 12, 2013
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9-
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9-
Really fun lead with small and good gear below the roof. Easier lead than other 9's in the park like Chicago and Upper D. Jun 15, 2016