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Routes in Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 734 total, 6/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on May 3, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Crux is pulling the roof move. Nice crack, edges, and roof line to the left of Green Ledges route. Low down start in left most crack (another route if you stay in this crack) then after maybe 10 Ft maximum make rightwards move utilizing small but sharp and positive pulls up and under the roof. There is somewhat of a sucker rest standing on a major horizontal under the roof. Above the roof the crack continues with major horizontals for the feet and one passes near an old tree stump sticking out.

Location

On the same buttress of rock that "Green Ledges" route resides in Minor Mass area. The route is to the left of "Green Ledges"

Protection

Excellent small to medium wires and small cams all the way.

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.9-
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.9-
Really fun lead with small and good gear below the roof. Easier lead than other 9's in the park like Chicago and Upper D. Jun 15, 2016
Aawait  
I thought this climb was pretty fun.

GEAR BETA: found a pretty good microcam placement in the roof(blue alien) then got a bomber nut placement just above the roof. May 12, 2013
Josh Knapp
East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.9+
Josh Knapp   East Troy, Wisconsin
  5.9+
I agree Nick! Took me a while to "unlock" the crux moves. I distinctly remember tweaking out trying to get some decent gear before committing to pulling the roof. I think I had 3, 33% pieces, with the hopes that one might hold. Micro's or balnutz would have been nice! The top of the climb eases up and is just fun. Dec 29, 2011
Tradiban
  5.9
Tradiban  
  5.9
Tricky little number! Very small parallel crack to work with. Micro cams help. Aug 6, 2010