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Routes in Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 612 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 23, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Flotsam and Jetsam are two climbs on the east face of the Minor Mass of the Doorway Rocks. They can be easily located by finding the large pine tree that lays across the chimney below Pigeon Roof.

The right variation of the route is the longer of the two. Make your way up to the "Saddle". From the saddle climb around so that you're above the fallen tree at the bottom of an inside corner about 10 feet above the "Saddle". Climb up the inside corner on easy holds to the south face of a small tower. Use ledges to gain the top of the tower.

The left variation climbs up the chimney that contains the fallen tree. This variation is the more awkward variation and is less recommended than the right variation.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
This route is a great way to finish the B-minor mass link up. Good gear and great exposure. Jul 11, 2014
Tradiban
  5.4
Tradiban  
  5.4
There is a very large loose block toward the top of this to the right of the exit crack. It looked like I could pull it right off! Jul 31, 2010
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.5
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.5
Another nice multi-pitch for beginning leaders is to ascend B-Minor Mass and then continue on this climb. I think the inside corner is the better route and it's more like a 5.5. Aug 6, 2007
I soloed this route on 03/15/03.very nice route would defineately make a good beginner lead. the finish is quite exposed and nice as well.Benjamin Sanders Mar 17, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
My buddy and I climbed this today and he did his first-ever lead on it. The line up the dihedral is challenging but straightforward. The top section is nice and exposed, so don't stop once you finish the dihedral. Go all the way to the top of the pinnacle! Nov 10, 2002