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Routes in Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: ???? Distant past in DL history
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 11, 2012
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

The hardest moves are right off the starting ledge and the there is a a tricky little musical sequence above pulling over onto the first prominent ledge. The upper half is even 5.5 tempo.

Location

South Tower of the Minor Mass, East Bluff. Climbs nice crack on face left of B Minor route and left of the big pine tree on the ledge up 20 feet of the B Minor route proper up to neat ledges and neat mantles then crosses the B Minor route to take on the final south facing upper most funky fractured block top.

Protection

Excellent all the way and never more then a body length except for the first 5 feet where YES... the crux moves are to be found.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
First few moves are hard to rate - I could see variations from 5.5 to 5.9, depending on what holds you consider "on". Jul 17, 2016