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5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Not by me. ???? |
Page Views: | 543 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Burton Lindquist on Aug 27, 2012 |
Admins: | Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge |
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Description
This route follows a prominent crack line up the minor buttress on the right of Minor Mass right side. It's more or less where route #1 on page 158 (marked on diagram 34E page 157) of Swartling/Mayer 3rd Edition "Climbers Guide to Devils Lake". The crux hits the climber directly off the ground with steep tricky moves to gain a small first ledge but there is a minor crux pulling through the finger crack section above onto a second ledge. There is a steep and thinly protected short wall to surmount above the second ledge to gain a third huge ledge (watch out on the moves pulling over - all downward sloping) then a final poorly protected final slab wall (or nearly not at all if climber takes the face strictly). Climber can utilize a large crack on he right for gear for this upper section and there is fixed pin as well but it is not a direct route of ascent.
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