All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 5.4 - Doorway Rocks -…
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Not by me. ????|
|Page Views:||543 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Burton Lindquist on Aug 27, 2012|
|Admins:||Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge|
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This route follows a prominent crack line up the minor buttress on the right of Minor Mass right side. It's more or less where route #1 on page 158 (marked on diagram 34E page 157) of Swartling/Mayer 3rd Edition "Climbers Guide to Devils Lake". The crux hits the climber directly off the ground with steep tricky moves to gain a small first ledge but there is a minor crux pulling through the finger crack section above onto a second ledge. There is a steep and thinly protected short wall to surmount above the second ledge to gain a third huge ledge (watch out on the moves pulling over - all downward sloping) then a final poorly protected final slab wall (or nearly not at all if climber takes the face strictly). Climber can utilize a large crack on he right for gear for this upper section and there is fixed pin as well but it is not a direct route of ascent.
Minor Mass - very right most buttress that has any routes worth checking out. I think this route is a challenge as a on-sight lead. There are options in the upper sections of the climb for pro if the climber wanders and finds side gear with long runners given to them.