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Routes in 5.4 - Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Width His Head! V1 5
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Not by me. ????
Page Views: 69 total · 1/month
Shared By: Burton Lindquist on Aug 27, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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This route follows a prominent crack line up the minor buttress on the right of Minor Mass right side. It's more or less where route #1 on page 158 (marked on diagram 34E page 157) of Swartling/Mayer 3rd Edition "Climbers Guide to Devils Lake". The crux hits the climber directly off the ground with steep tricky moves to gain a small first ledge but there is a minor crux pulling through the finger crack section above onto a second ledge. There is a steep and thinly protected short wall to surmount above the second ledge to gain a third huge ledge (watch out on the moves pulling over - all downward sloping) then a final poorly protected final slab wall (or nearly not at all if climber takes the face strictly). Climber can utilize a large crack on he right for gear for this upper section and there is fixed pin as well but it is not a direct route of ascent.


Minor Mass - very right most buttress that has any routes worth checking out. I think this route is a challenge as a on-sight lead. There are options in the upper sections of the climb for pro if the climber wanders and finds side gear with long runners given to them.


Two small wire slots to protect the entrance moves then wires and first knuckle sized cams to protect the finger crack.



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