Type: Trad, TR
FA: FA: James (Peyton) Hessinger & Isaac Therneau
Page Views: 598 total · 6/month
Shared By: Isaac Therneau on Aug 29, 2010
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Faint crack system on the face right of pigeon roof. The climb is hard off of the ledge, and the crux involves some tricky movement through the overhang, finishing on the face to the right of the arete next pigeon roof.

Protection

Sparse in the beginning but good once you get to it.

Photos

Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.10b
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.10b
Anyone know the name of the route that goes immediately to the right of this climb? I believe we were climbing to the left of Lady fingers. The climb was hard off of the ledge, and you didn't get pro till hitting a nice horizontal crack. Afterwards the crux involved some tricky movement with side-pulls and an under-cling, finishing on the face to the right of the arete next pigeon roof. Aug 8, 2010
Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burton Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Isaac? How hard was it? No mention in any guide of this route that I know of? Did you lead "Ladyfingers" too. That's a sketchy kinda lead too. Aug 9, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.10b
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.10b
I believe it's fair to highlight the fact that I had never been to the major/minor mass before and was adamant to my climbing partner that pigeon roof was hammer crack. We didn't get on ladyfingers I believe as I didn't know where we were climbing till after we had returned to the car and the guidebook. These moments of idiocy did not faze me as I've often experienced them in my climbing career. Since we didn't know the area we figured the route we did was something. It felt 5.10a/b R to the both of us. I'll highlight in one of the pictures posted where we climbed for clarification. Aug 9, 2010
chris tregge
Beersconsin
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
Isaac just give it a name. You posted about this long enough ago that folks who had climbed it could have already chimed in. And still could. Shoot me an email when you're coming back to the lake. Aug 30, 2010
Isaac Therneau
Rochester, MN
  5.10b
Isaac Therneau   Rochester, MN
  5.10b
Named in honor of Peytons ability to summon the rain whenever he is on lead. Sep 29, 2010
Tradiban
  5.10b R
Tradiban  
  5.10b R
Also a great climb along with Ladyfingers. Hardest move right off the deck with a directional at your feet. Some good stuff in the middle, a red C3 was key. A micro cam in a flaring pod is the only thing that protects the top but the climbing eases off.

I can't believe Sven missed this one! Aug 30, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10b
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10b
Great little lead! Nice find guys. Aug 30, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Wow! Pulling through that roof it was not at all obvious where to go. A sequence of small crimps hidden in plain view, classic Lake! Aug 11, 2012