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Routes in Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 64 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Nov 11, 2010
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Starts hard on a sharp arete and then eases off with good pro.

Location

Start in the gully behind B-Minor Mass on a sharp arete right of a tree choked dihedral.

Protection

Mixed bag of gear.

Photos

Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
Led this today and stayed right on the arete and it climbs very well that way with somewhat ample protection in horizontals. I climbed all the way to the highest summit and it's fun with a great view down onto the tree tops. Awesome temps today with great cool breezes swirling around. Sep 8, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Like Nick says, keep one hand on the arete. It's a little - but not too - contrived. Climbs better than it looks, except for the very last move. Sep 7, 2012
Tradiban  
 
Neither "Starts hard on a sharp arete". Sep 7, 2012
Did this two weeks ago and was a bit confused on which crack A Cheval starts up. I climb the this lower slab with minimal gear, then had the option of taking the dihedral(right crack) or the left crack on or near the face. I took the left crack and the climb ending up being a bit contrived all the way to the top. I think I was off route...Beta on where to start on which crack? Sep 6, 2012
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
The gear is much better than it looks from below ... every body length along the sharp arete. Oct 5, 2011