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Routes in 5.4 - Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Width His Head! V1 5
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: Alex A
Page Views: 869 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tradiban on Aug 4, 2009
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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One of the taller routes at Minor Mass.


Start up the face right of "Manhandler". At overhang grab a rest to the right and then climb left and straight up to the top.


DL Style and TR. Has it been led?


I'm not sure if you're supposed to climb left at the first overhang and finish on "Manhandler" or go left at the higher overhang. Beta? Aug 4, 2009
To answer my own question, this route starts just right of "Manhandler" and traverses a bit right on good finger ledges, then straight up to the over hang for a rest on the right, then traverse left to the arete and straight up the face to the top. Finish right of the cap stone for more spicy.

The book says 5.10d, I think more like 5.11a or b. I led it with micro cams, ball-nuts, brassies and testicles. Definitely "R" rated.

Pretty damn fun once I figured out the beta. Aug 5, 2009
This was also a good route as a belayer. I was able to gain a nice stance right next to the pine tree at the base of the climb, but partway through my climber's attempt at a lead my neck cramped. I was able to take him off belay, find a nice perch up and to the right, snap a pic or two, and get him safely back on before he noticed. Also, a great view of the lake off to your right. Definitely four stars. Aug 5, 2009
Alex A
  5.10d R
Alex A  
  5.10d R
Nick, you got the 1st lead, wow bold lead, I did the 1st Ascent TR, over 25 yrs ago, how I named it, as we were, heading to the crag someone yelled, Mr Wizard, Mr Wizard, I do not wont to be a rock climber anymore, then I yelled back, drizzle drazil drown time for this one to come home, for the Cartoon, Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle, Apr 13, 2010
Thanks, info adjusted above. One of the better routes of the area in my opinion but I'd never heard of it until pin pointing it in the guidebook. Apr 13, 2010
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Interesting climb and hard for the grade. Took a bit to figure out the crux, but when you do it all comes together. Jun 15, 2016
This is the only climb at the lake I've seen that has iron plates on it. Worth doing for that. Jul 23, 2016

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