All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 05 - Po… > 5.4 - Doorway Rocks -…

Pigeon Roof

Name: Pigeon Roof
Rating: 3.1

5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British

Routes in 5.4 - Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Green Slab T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Off Width His Head! V1 5
	Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, TR
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,786 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Doug Hemken on Feb 23, 2002
Admins:	Ian CB, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Your Star Rating:

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

-none-

Description

This route climbs the big crack on the east face of Minor Mass. From below the roof looks imposing, but it is surprisingly easy. Above the roof ... is the crux!

An initial, scrambling start on the left (west) side of the lower wall takes you to the big ledge system that runs under the upper face, from the saddle on the left to the gully on the right.

A few strenuous moves in the dihedral get you established on the wall. At the overhang, keep your eyes peeled for holds beside the crack.

Once past the overhang, a combination of arm bars and tiny face holds allow you to progress further.

Protection

A standard rack to three inches will have you diving deep in the upper crack, desperately searching for nut placements. That works, but you'll be happier with a 5" or even 6" piece!

There are a couple of ancient pitons on and near this route - don't trust them, please.