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Routes in 5.4 - Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass

A Cheval T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
B-minor Mass T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Disinclination T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Empty Nester T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flotsam and Jetsam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Great Mass in C Minor T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LadyFingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manhandler T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Obduracy T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Width His Head! V1 5
Oofdah Left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Oofdah Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pigeon Roof T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Power of a Good Haircut TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rainman T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Saturday Forever T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,047 total · 5/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Feb 23, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This route climbs the big crack on the east face of Minor Mass. From below the roof looks imposing, but it is surprisingly easy. Above the roof ... is the crux!

An initial, scrambling start on the left (west) side of the lower wall takes you to the big ledge system that runs under the upper face, from the saddle on the left to the gully on the right.

A few strenuous moves in the dihedral get you established on the wall. At the overhang, keep your eyes peeled for holds beside the crack.

Once past the overhang, a combination of arm bars and tiny face holds allow you to progress further.

Protection

A standard rack to three inches will have you diving deep in the upper crack, desperately searching for nut placements. That works, but you'll be happier with a 5" or even 6" piece!

There are a couple of ancient pitons on and near this route - don't trust them, please.
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
I climbed this again today and really enjoyed it. The crux might look like it's at the roof, but it's actually above the roof in the awkward crack. The width is just never quite right. Great easier climb with juggy holds to make the roof relatively straightforward. Nov 10, 2002
Anonymous  
 
I led this route on 03/15/03. and I must say that although the route has the potential to be fun I found it horrid. The entire upper section from just below the roof to the end stunk like urine and pigeon dung which was all over and impossible to avoid getting on you at least a little. A #5 Camalot would have made the upper crack more enjoyable but I was able to place a small cam deep in the crack by a bunch of bird crud.I will not climb this route again nor recommend it.

Benjamin Sanders

three stars is way too much for this route unless you like bird droppings. I say 0 - 1 star at best

rating held true Mar 17, 2003
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Benjamin,Did you not expect to find the leavings of pigeons in a climb called Pigeon Roof? I have noticed that the, shall we say, pungent smell of the little beasts tends to be more overpowering in the spring than at any other point during the year. At least none of the feathered guys decided to vacate the crack as you climbed past them. Man, their wings sound like a bomb going off. Not what you'd like to hear when you are sketching out ten feet above your last piece.

There is an old video of the late Derek Hersey soloing a hard route in Eldorado Canyon. As he's jamming the cack a pigeon flies out of the crack, straight into his face! Heresey had the mental strength and wherewithall to avoid falling. Lets face it, climbing (at least the best climbing) take place in nature. As I see it, wildlife, of the smelly avian variety, is a an intrinsic necessary evil. Pigeon Roof, though, that route's a pile. Mar 21, 2003
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
I've had the little turds fly in my face on Double Overhang on Rainy Wed. Tower and on Bailey's Direct on Devil's Tower. Scared me silly both times. Aug 6, 2007
Tradiban
  5.6
Tradiban  
  5.6
Good route, in a bad way. One good piece in the back of the wide crack at the top if you are skinny enough to get your body in there or got long arms to reach it. A Big Bro might have helped! Jul 31, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
 
Remo   Madison, WI
 
Bring big gear for the top. I didn't and it's a long run-out. Aug 30, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
If you own a #6 C4 you'll be able to use it here. Oct 7, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
It has been quite a few years since pigeons nested here. Aug 1, 2016

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