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Routes in Chicken Little Area

C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Little S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rooster Tail S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw et. al.
Page Views: 583 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 25, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Easy blocky climbing leads to the high first bolt. The climbing continues to be steep but very positive before starting up the arete where a crux move is encountered between bolts 4 and 5. After that more nice arete moves await to the finish. Some complain the blocky, suspect rock at the bottom detracts but I don't think so.

Location

This is the first bolted line right of The Egg. It has a high first bolt.

Protection

8 bolts to springed cold shuts.

Photos

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
 
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
 
I am in agreement that the blocky, trashy looking rock at the bottom of the route detracts from the quality of the route. Felt OK after clipping the first bolt though I knocked off a small block prior to getting there. I was treading lightly so it was of no consequence but the thought was in the back of my mind (being someone who has has more than one fall resulting from broken rock). The top was good, with fun movement up the arete. Just be aware, especially in the springtime!

An optional cam can be placed down low if you are concerned about the high first bolt (my partner had one and used it). Certainly not necessary if you are comfortable at the grade, the climbing is not difficult getting to the initial bolt (just appears loose!). Apr 6, 2008