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Routes in Chicken Little Area

C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Little S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rooster Tail S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, 2006
Page Views: 486 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 25, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Good climb with a bulge down lown to ledgy middle and a crux bulge in a lichen patch near the top. Rock is decent here. Generously bolted but lacks the springer shuts like every other climb in the Chicken Little area.

Location

This is the route just to the right of Cruising for Chicks and left of Casada Noodle Soup.

Protection

7 (or 8?) bolts with reddish hangers to a two-bolt anchor with chain links.

Photos

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Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
  5.10c
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
  5.10c
The more I think about this route, the more I like it. The section below the first bolt is kind of annoying (if it weren't for how dirty the bottom is, the moves would be good), but once you get past it the fun begins. Feb 6, 2017
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
A good climb and worth doing. There is some dirty stuff but that will probably all come off in time.

Go give it a shot!

2 stars until the pebbles are all removed. Jul 5, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10c
Felt the first bolt was in a good spot, keeping you safe for the first crux through the bulge. Climbs a bit like most of the routes in this area with lots of crimps and a side pull here and there. Though I did not know at the time, I guessed this might be a Vaino route, as he has a signature style of route setting: camo bolt hangers and safely protected. Would be difficult to take any large whippers on one of his routes! Makes it great for one breaking into leading this grade! Apr 6, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
The first bolt is in a contrived spot but the rest of the route is crimpy, continuous and fun. No Springers at the top like every other route at Cock's Comb, Maybe next time. Sep 20, 2007
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Rooster Tail
FA Vaino Kodas 2006
See vainokodas.com/climbing/nmr… Mar 28, 2007