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Routes in Chicken Little Area
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C -4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C1.5 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chicken Little S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rooster Tail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Rick Bradshaw & Marty Muller |
| Page Views: | 761 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Halladay on Mar 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Very thin, hard start that some might call height dependent. First bolt can be clipped from the ground if you're fairly tall and it is suggested to do so as this is the crux. Getting the first two bolts clipped is the hard part. Then nice climbing in the middle but save some juice for the final bolt and anchors.
"The route is rated based on starting several feet left of the bolt line and traversing up and right to the arete, all protected (better as you go) by the first bolt, which should be clipped from the ground before starting the climb." (Rick Bradshaw)
"The route is rated based on starting several feet left of the bolt line and traversing up and right to the arete, all protected (better as you go) by the first bolt, which should be clipped from the ground before starting the climb." (Rick Bradshaw)
Location
This route is two routes right of The Egg. It has a lowish bolt about seven feet off the ground in a smooth face of rock.
Photos
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