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Routes in Chicken Little Area

C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Little S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rooster Tail S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Rick Bradshaw and Walt Wehner
Page Views: 138 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Starts just to the right of, and gains the same ledge as Casada Noodle Soup. To spot the route just look up for a bolt line heading between two distinct cracks. Once gaining the initial ledge you can step up and clip the first bolt. A few reachy, semi difficult moves will lead to some easier ones and a smooth face with cracks on either side of the bolt line. Nice route, though one you gain the face it seems to wander back and fourth across the face (contrived)! The route setters intended for the route to head up the center between cracks for the 5.10d grade. Though the cracks are so close to the bolt line, it is very tempting to reach for the large jugs that are part of the crack system. Staying between the cracks would definitely increase the grade to or beyond the 10d listed in the guides (R. Bradshaw and JM Beverly). However, you can easily clip the bolts heading up either crack system.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Robin
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
I recently did this route without using the cracks. Not too contrived if you ask me, just a little bit of self control is needed to keep from reaching out to the crack.

Climbing without the cracks makes for a very fun climb. If you make it using the cracks, go back and try without. Likewise I suppose I'll see how the route feels using the cracks, either way probably worth climbing.... Jul 5, 2008
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
Walt Wehner and I established this route. We climbed it, named it, and rated it based on the direct line (no crack), which is aesthetic but in retrospect a bit contrived given the proximity of the crack. I think the direct line requires better (more fun) movement, but its fun any way you do it. Sep 26, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Directly up the bolt line is stiff 10d. The two cracks are tempting and close. I climbed it like most people by wandering. Use both cracks and you get a great 10a/b. Harder than the Egg but only a little. I did it on sight. My friends were very impressed since they didn't see me use the cracks. Oct 8, 2006