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Routes in Chicken Little Area

C1 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C1.5 T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
C3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
C4 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Casada Noodle Soup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chicken Little S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chicken Scratch S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chicken Thief S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cruisin for Chicks S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Egg, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Wing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rooster Tail S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Technical Fowl S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Rick Bradshaw & Walt Wehner, in 2000
Page Views: 156 total · 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start just to the right of a medium juniper and climb slightly right to gain a small ledge. Reach up and left to clip your first bolt. Find the holds that will put you over the bulge. After a few easy moves, climb the smooth, thin face to the anchors. Crux near the middle and the top. Guides both give this route a 5.10b rating, thought it was a little more difficult than that. Crux at the top.

Location

At the top of the trailhead, you will see a small alcove between a large rock and the cliff, with a tree behind. The route starts in here, gains a ledge, and heads up towards lichen covered rock to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10c
I agree with Anthony that this feels a bit harder than 5.10b, especially compared to the other 5.10s at the CCC. Very nice though. Sep 24, 2006
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c/d
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c/d
The rule to know about Bradshaw routes is 10a is nice and 10b/c is hard. Beware the 10c. Well bolted as are all Bradshaw routes. Rick put a lot of time and money in bolting these fine climbs. This route was hard for me. A lot of hanging. Oct 8, 2006
Wa3lt  
FA was by Rick Bradshaw, in 2000. I might have been helping out that day too, but I can't remember. I did help Rick put up about 10 of the Cockcomb routes.

-Walt Dec 5, 2006
Great route. Really well bolted, on quality rock. Thanks to the bolters for treating us all to quality climbing, and splurging on excellent anchors! Sep 13, 2009

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