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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Randy Isler
Page Views: 1,011 total, 8/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start to the right of Lonesome Dove, and left of a large prominent crack. Climb the chossy looking rock through the bottom two bolts. The crux is before the second bolt. Continue up through nice face climbing to a recess in the wall. From here, the climb completely changes character. Clip the 9th bolt and from here there are two ways. You can go left, which is easier but a pendulum fall could result in disaster. Heading straight up is the better choice.

Protection

9 Bolts with chain anchors

Photos

Climbed this yesterday, and really enjoyed it! While the 1st to 2nd bolt is a little difficult, stay right of the 2nd bolt 4 feet, great holds for climbing. I tried getting to the anchors both ways, heading left and straight up. Both a little heady but fun! I think the top anchors should probably be replaced. 2 old looking bolts and 1 newer anchor with a ring. I definitely recommend. Jul 9, 2016
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
Climbed this route recently. Dave let me know when you are ready and I'll help you bolt!! Aug 22, 2011
Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM
Arthur Sullivan   Albuquerque,NM
I'm all for the new anchor. I went left at the top which turned out to be a very bad idea. May 9, 2010
Hmmm, might have to do this one a few more times if you add that anchor. I thought it was a nice, long (relatively speaking) climb but that weirdness at the top got old and made it no longer worth climbing.

Drill away Dave. Jan 5, 2010
Dave Wachter  
 
Thanks, Lee and Randy. When the weather permits I'll throw in that extra bolt, with some good lowering anchors. Dec 22, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Just talked to Randy tonight, he gives his blessing, sorry it took me so long to get a hold of him but I've been out of town/country for a couple of months.

Go ahead and add a bolt to make a lower anchor.

OH and I believe it is Isler, no E. Nov 11, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
Hello...Randy? Ground control to Randy Eisler... Got some nice new Fixe sport anchors, got a drill, got time on my hands. If you don't mind increased traffic on your route and a milling herd of pesky moderate climbers running around the base with shit-eating grins, send in your moral support for addition of a new, lower anchor. Promise we'll leave your upper anchor be. Sep 15, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
I'd like to recant my last comment about not wanting to go so far as to change the anchor. Just climbed the route again today - it really is as good as I remember it (the choss band has cleaned up nicely, and is now quite solid); however, the finish is still completely annoying. I will gladly place a second bolt beside the last bolt before the anchor (the one you can reach up and clip from the huge ledge), and add lowering clips. Doesn't look like Randy Eisler is on Mtn Project. Anybody know how to contact him? Aug 29, 2009
Dave Wachter  
 
I agree that this is a good route, with interesting and varied climbing. But the finish is 8 feet of ridiculous, awkward climbing off a ledge big enough to host a kegger, making a mockery of an otherwise sustained high-quality climb. I wouldn't go so far as to put in a new set of anchors below the ledge, but I'd certainly clip and lower off them if somebody else did. Mar 2, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Despite the weird, pointless roof boulder-problem finish, this route is very good. If you like crimping and you don't want to have to think too hard, this route is for you. IMO this one of the top ten routes at Palomas. Nov 17, 2006
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.10b
Not a great climb in my opinion. I think the online guide goes a bit overboard with 5 stars for this. The crux is not breaking a hold through the choss. And while the middle part is good, I didn't find the top all that much fun. Nov 8, 2006