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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Deborah Evans, Bernard Moret
Page Views: 631 total, 5/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 16, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This challenging line ascends a thin seam of excellent limestone with challenging footwork. Its possible to make things easier by using the larger crack three feet right of the main line. For full-value, use all of your thin-crack skills, pasting and rand-smearing your feet. After the 4th bolt, things get a lot easier with great crimps and face holds.

Location

Furthes N route at the Far Side II, just a bit north of the Pizza Slab.

Protection

6 Bolts, 2 BA.

Photos

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Dave Wachter
  5.11a
Dave Wachter  
  5.11a
Palomas is not about overcoming temptation. If that's what you're looking for, go out to a disco with your girlfriend's hot-like-curry sister and fight her off when she asks you to dance (and get all kinds of bleeding wounds in the process, to make the analogy complete). The best Palomas routes give you a simple line with a challenging natural progression. Eliminate problems on natural stone suck. Dec 22, 2009
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
  5.11c
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
  5.11c
Come on now this is Palomas, part of the game is ignoring those tempting looking cracks so you can crux out on slippery footholds. I actually really liked this one, one of my favorite Palomas 11's. Remember the hard to see jug at the 4th bolt. It is only easy to see once you're past it. Oct 8, 2009
Dave Wachter
  5.11a
Dave Wachter  
  5.11a
Yeah, I'd consider this a good 11a. The crack is just too obvious and tempting to ignore, and I think it's the more natural line. Going left into the skittery feet and awkward handholds down low seems rather contrived to me. Mid-section climbs oh so nice. Sep 15, 2009
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11a
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11a
I thought this was a lot of fun, one of the highlights of my first visit to Palomas. I used the crack on the right and it seemed like 11a (as per the online guide). Sep 4, 2009
Dave Wachter
  5.11a
Dave Wachter  
  5.11a
I used the crack to the right near the start. Maybe I'm chicken, but at least I'm not chicken hamburger. Another Palomas cheese-grater fest. Aug 29, 2009