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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Marc Beverly, Justin Spain
Page Views: 692 total, 7/month
Shared By: Justin Spain on Jun 2, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A great 5.10 route with a stout 11d sequence to pull over the roof. Climb starts in a shallow crack and detaching flake on the climbers right of Sinister Base and left of Pussy Whipped. Heads straight up to a thin seam in the roof, following the seam out and over roof into a right open book. Follow bolts to shared anchor with Pussy Whipped.

Reference photo for Pussy Whipped and Tiger by the Tail.

Location

Is between Sinister Base and Tiger by the Tail. Heads up large flake to thin seam in roof.

Protection

6 Bolts. Shares 2 bolt chain anchor with Pussy Whipped.

Photos

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J J
Edgewood, NM
J J   Edgewood, NM
Definitely solid pulling the roof, felt v4-ish but i could have botched the beta, had a hard time with my feet. 5.9ish above the roof, once you can stand, there are good rests. The rock above is questionable, seems like some of the blocks are barely in the seam. Sep 28, 2010
chadperson  
 
nice moves through the roof. watch the rock quality on this one. a lot of stuff is chossy, especially at the bottom. seems like it could use annual cleaning Aug 22, 2009