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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Vaino Kodas, Brian Pletta 2005
Page Views: 552 total, 4/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained and strenuous! Start left of Lonesome Dove, on the other side of the arete, and to the right of Knee Jerk Reaction. The climb begins behind a tree. Diagonal up and right through chossy rock at the start, clipping bolts as you go. The tricky business begins when you get to the beautiful, somewhat featureless face. The crux is here where you will go up before moving back left. You need an alert belayer as it seems possible to fall and hit the tree that is below you, hence the name of the route. After the crux, moving left and then up is great climbing (interesting liebacking) on excellent rock.

My star rating is just a just guess at this point, since I could not climb it, I could not rate it. I tried though, and will get back on it. Much of the route description came from Vaino, the route setter.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors.

Photos

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the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Hardest 12b on the planet...Well bolted though. Oct 14, 2012