PRINT: Rock Climb Patchwork, Albuquerque Area

Patchwork

5.10c, Sport,

Avg: 2.6 from 37 votes
FA: Randy Isler
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Placitas > Palomas Peak > (10) The Far Side II

Description

Start to the right of Lonesome Dove, and left of a large prominent crack. Climb the chossy looking rock through the bottom two bolts. The crux is before the second bolt. Continue up through nice face climbing to a recess in the wall. From here, the climb completely changes character. Clip the 9th bolt and from here there are two ways. You can go left, which is easier but a pendulum fall could result in disaster. Heading straight up is the better choice.

Protection

9 bolts, anchor with lowering hooks (lowering hardware added 9/2023 by NMMC, provided by ASCA).

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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

5.10b

Not a great climb in my opinion. I think the online guide goes a bit overboard with 5 stars for this. The crux is not breaking a hold through the choss. And while the middle part is good, I didn't find the top all that much fun. Nov 8, 2006

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO

Despite the weird, pointless roof boulder-problem finish, this route is very good. If you like crimping and you don't want to have to think too hard, this route is for you. IMO this one of the top ten routes at Palomas. Nov 17, 2006

Dave Wachter

I agree that this is a good route, with interesting and varied climbing. But the finish is 8 feet of ridiculous, awkward climbing off a ledge big enough to host a kegger, making a mockery of an otherwise sustained high-quality climb. I wouldn't go so far as to put in a new set of anchors below the ledge, but I'd certainly clip and lower off them if somebody else did. Mar 2, 2008

Dave Wachter

I'd like to recant my last comment about not wanting to go so far as to change the anchor. Just climbed the route again today - it really is as good as I remember it (the choss band has cleaned up nicely, and is now quite solid); however, the finish is still completely annoying. I will gladly place a second bolt beside the last bolt before the anchor (the one you can reach up and clip from the huge ledge), and add lowering clips. Doesn't look like Randy Eisler is on Mtn Project. Anybody know how to contact him? Aug 29, 2009

Dave Wachter

Hello...Randy? Ground control to Randy Eisler... Got some nice new Fixe sport anchors, got a drill, got time on my hands. If you don't mind increased traffic on your route and a milling herd of pesky moderate climbers running around the base with shit-eating grins, send in your moral support for addition of a new, lower anchor. Promise we'll leave your upper anchor be. Sep 15, 2009

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX

Just talked to Randy tonight, he gives his blessing, sorry it took me so long to get a hold of him but I've been out of town/country for a couple of months.

Go ahead and add a bolt to make a lower anchor.

OH and I believe it is Isler, no E. Nov 11, 2009

Dave Wachter

Thanks, Lee and Randy. When the weather permits I'll throw in that extra bolt, with some good lowering anchors. Dec 22, 2009

Paul Davidson

Hmmm, might have to do this one a few more times if you add that anchor. I thought it was a nice, long (relatively speaking) climb but that weirdness at the top got old and made it no longer worth climbing.

Drill away Dave. Jan 5, 2010

Arthur Sullivan
Albuquerque,NM

I'm all for the new anchor. I went left at the top which turned out to be a very bad idea. May 9, 2010

Robin
Albuquerque, NM

Climbed this route recently. Dave let me know when you are ready and I'll help you bolt!! Aug 22, 2011

Mark Johnston

Climbed this yesterday, and really enjoyed it! While the 1st to 2nd bolt is a little difficult, stay right of the 2nd bolt 4 feet, great holds for climbing. I tried getting to the anchors both ways, heading left and straight up. Both a little heady but fun! I think the top anchors should probably be replaced. 2 old looking bolts and 1 newer anchor with a ring. I definitely recommend. Jul 9, 2016

Gregory Bunting
Albuquerque, NM

In case anyone was wondering, the anchor never got moved down to the 9th bolt, so you still have to do the boulder problem to finish the climb. Also, of the three bolts in the anchor, two look like spinning glue-ins, which is a bit troubling. Nov 28, 2021

Randall Gann
Albuquerque, NM

On 9/17/2022, a bolt was added next to the eighth bolt to create an alternate anchor just below the big ledge. The work was completed by Randall Gann and Joel Tinl per the okay from the first ascensionist in this comment thread. Both bolt hangers were equipped with chains, and all hardware was provided by NM CRAG.
The original anchor was left as it was and the climb may still be completed as historically created. Climbing to the new anchor requires seven QuickDraws to chains. Sep 18, 2022

Anna Brown
Albuquerque, NM

Very appreciative of the new anchor location. Fun lead! Oct 30, 2022

Dylan Fox
Albuquerque, NM

5.10c

Good route! Maybe a bit harder than 5.10c if you go past the first anchor, and the second anchor is in rough shape, so I’d recommend just calling it at the first. Nov 14, 2023

Anna Brown
Albuquerque, NM

If 10c is nearing your limit, I highly recommend stickclipping the second bolt. The main crux is getting from bolt 1 to 2 and you can’t easily clip the second bolt until your through the harder climbing and it’ll probably be a ground fall. The lower rock is choss.

I personally love this climb and am thankful for the new lower anchor. The route has lots of variation and is steep & thoughtful.

The older comments regarding the top of the climb being unpleasant are null & void with the new lower anchor location. May 5, 2024