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Routes in (09) The Far Side II

Blonde Ambition S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Checkers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chess S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Miss Out S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Extra Cheese S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fine Line S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hangman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knee Jerk Reaction S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lonesome Dove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Low Hanging Fruit S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Main Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patchwork S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pizza Stone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pussy Whipped S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Settled Science S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinister Base S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Take 'n Bake S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiger by the Tail S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Watch Out For That Tree S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jen Payne, Vaino Kodas 2007
Page Views: 1,777 total · 15/month
Shared By: Chris Wenker on Nov 3, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: June 15, 2018 - Sandia Mountains closed due to Cibola National Forest Stage III fire restrictions Details

Description

A decent moderate clip-up. A blocky start, then a face that leads to a mantle onto a big ledge. Above this mid-way ledge you are forced to climb out to the right, where there is a semi-attached boulder that may come off someday. The first bolt above the ledge is easy enough to get to, but it is a ways up there (maybe use a locker on it? seeing as there is a ledge below you). The next bolt above that may be troublesome for some people to clip. Then face climb to the anchors.

The original description, with a photo topo, is posted on Vaino Kodas' website.

Location

This recent route is not listed in any previous guide except Kodas' site. The route starts about 10 feet right of the start of Pussy Whipped.

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

trevor becker
  5.9
trevor becker  
  5.9
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of this climb:

youtube.com/watch?v=4ILzAsx… Jan 19, 2013
Lee H
Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Lee H   Albuqueruqe,NM
 
Only slightly less difficult than Tiger by the Tail. The bottom is pretty straight forward. I've heard others say they skip the 5th bolt, since it's off of the original line, but I made the interesting short traverse over and clipped it. Mar 21, 2016

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