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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Bruce Morris, Kevin Leary & Bill Taylor, November 1977
Page Views: 4,932 total, 36/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This climb is down and left of the start of "Royal Arches Route", and just right of the creek coming from Royal Arches Cascade.
Climb a flake and thin crack to a two bolt anchor.

Location

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Walk off the top to the left.

Protection

Thin. Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 Camalot for the bottom flake.

Photos

Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
FYI: I did this with Kevin Leary and Bill Taylor in November 1977. Mar 24, 2016
Cimbing Ivy
bay area, CA
 
Cimbing Ivy   bay area, CA
 
varied in size and character from section to section but lots of fun nonetheless.

the thin finger crux is not sustained nor polished and takes bomber gear. may i spill gear betas - green aliens!! Jun 6, 2013
Teun
 
Teun  
 
This route is like a puppy, cute at first, then it tries to bite you, but it can't with its tiny teeth, so then it just rolls over to get its belly scratched! Jun 4, 2013
The two moves of 5.9 on Peruvian Flake make this one of the best leads for climbers who are trying to break into the 5.10a grade.

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 camalot for the bottom flake. The crux is a good quality finger crack half way up the climb.

Walk off to the left. Mar 18, 2012
Herndon  
I call this the easiest 5.10 on Earth. Definitely worth doing, though. Feb 11, 2010
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Super fun. Crux is easy to protect with a couple of small cams. 105' rap to ground from fixed slings. Jul 20, 2007
Jorge
  5.10- PG13
Jorge  
  5.10- PG13
There are no bolts at the top of this route. There is an easy walk off. Mar 20, 2007