Type: Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chales Cole and Steve Grossman
Page Views: 4,543 total · 32/month
Shared By: Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Firefingers is one of the great 5.11 face routes in Yosemite. The first pitch is typical Steve Grossman -- very run out. This pitch is often wet, excusing most of us from facing the mental challenge. (I'll admit that I've never led it.) The second pitch is very continuous. It begins from the Maxine's Wall belay, and it is well-protected but very demanding. Move up in left from the Maxine's belay (crux) to an indistinct groove. Work the grove up for sixty feet to a Thank-God flake (bring a large cam for pro). Then move up and right to the belay at the top of the second pitch of Maxine's.

The route is called Firefingers because of the demands that the thin edges place on finger tips. The first time I led the route, I acquired some nasty blood blisters. Climbers familiar with the great 5.11 face routes on Suicide Rock in Southern California will enjoy this route.

Location

The first pitch goes up right and around the corner from Maxine's Wall. The second pitch goes up and right from the chains at the top of the first pitch of Maxine's

Protection

Be sure to bring that big cam (4"), otherwise all bolts.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Very good climbing to be sure. Headpointed the first pitch after a lap on TR. Hardest bits are down low but it is a run to the top. Just consider yourself very solid for the grade to on-sight this pitch, it is not something you want to bail off of at the top. First pitch is probably "X" with an 60' ground fall potential getting to the last bolt from 5.9... This, after a 5.10 crux that is reasonably protected by the second bolt. Dec 3, 2016