PRINT: Rock Climb *CLOSED FOR SAFETY* Peruvian Flake, Yosemite National Park

CLOSED FOR SAFETY Peruvian Flake

5.10a, Trad, 105 ft (32 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 181 votes
FA: Bruce Morris, Kevin Leary & Bill Taylor, November 1977
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > H. Royal Arches… > Royal Arches > Western Royal Arches

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Description

Please do not climb as of August 23, 2023. Per the Yosemite Climbing Rangers, "A new crack system appeared overnight and there is concern that a major rockfall could happen. The park Geologist will be assessing the scene and we will keep you updated on any further changes." See here for closure.

This climb is down and left of the start of "Royal Arches Route", and just right of the creek coming from Royal Arches Cascade.

Climb a flake and thin crack to a two bolt anchor.

Location

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Walk off the top to the left.

Protection

Thin. Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 Camalot for the bottom flake.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don't miss the #1 placement from the good stance below or you'll deck hard

Peruvian Flake in all its glory

Maria firing Peruvian Flake.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jorge

5.10- PG13

There are no bolts at the top of this route. There is an easy walk off. Mar 20, 2007

Osprey Overhang
...

The two moves of 5.9 on Peruvian Flake make this one of the best leads for climbers who are trying to break into the 5.10a grade.

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 camalot for the bottom flake. The crux is a good quality finger crack half way up the climb.

Walk off to the left. Mar 18, 2012

Teun	[Hide Comment] This route is like a puppy, cute at first, then it tries to bite you, but it can't with its tiny teeth, so then it just rolls over to get its belly scratched! Jun 4, 2013

Climbing Ivy
NAZ

varied in size and character from section to section but lots of fun nonetheless.

the thin finger crux is not sustained nor polished and takes bomber gear. may i spill gear betas - green aliens!! Jun 6, 2013

Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA

FYI: I did this with Kevin Leary and Bill Taylor in November 1977. Mar 24, 2016

Bryan H
Redwood CIty, CA

Hey look, the flake looks like the coastline of Peru! Sep 30, 2020

Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca

5.10a

Running water at base of the route as of 5/10/21. I'd expect it to be there till fall. Tons of mosquitos also so bring a head cover for belayer and wear long sleeves. Other than that, its a pretty great route and totally worth doing if just exploring the area and have time to do an extra route. Bring some small gear to protect the crux moves (0.2 z4, C3s). Walk off is easy. May 13, 2021

Jake Messner
NorCal

Big tree at the base of the climb fell down and now the belayer will probably want to stand on the trunk. Black totem protects the crux well. Jul 12, 2021