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Peruvian Flake

5.10a, Trad, 105 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 138 votes
FA: Bruce Morris, Kevin Leary & Bill Taylor, November 1977
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Royal Arches Area > Royal Arches > Western Royal Arches
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This climb is down and left of the start of "Royal Arches Route", and just right of the creek coming from Royal Arches Cascade.
Climb a flake and thin crack to a two bolt anchor.

Location

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Walk off the top to the left.

Protection

Thin. Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 Camalot for the bottom flake.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Don't miss the #1 placement from the good stance below or you'll deck hard
[Hide Photo] Don't miss the #1 placement from the good stance below or you'll deck hard
Maria firing Peruvian Flake.
[Hide Photo] Maria firing Peruvian Flake.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jorge
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] There are no bolts at the top of this route. There is an easy walk off. Mar 20, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun. Crux is easy to protect with a couple of small cams. 105' rap to ground from fixed slings. Jul 20, 2007
[Hide Comment] I call this the easiest 5.10 on Earth. Definitely worth doing, though. Feb 11, 2010
[Hide Comment] The two moves of 5.9 on Peruvian Flake make this one of the best leads for climbers who are trying to break into the 5.10a grade.

From the Ahwahnee parking lot, follow the horse trail toward Washington's Column. Take a left just past the first stream and follow a climber's trail up toward the waterfall. Follow the base of the cliff to the right to find the start of the climb.

Bring a standard rack. Include up to a #4 camalot for the bottom flake. The crux is a good quality finger crack half way up the climb.

Walk off to the left. Mar 18, 2012
Teun
 
[Hide Comment] This route is like a puppy, cute at first, then it tries to bite you, but it can't with its tiny teeth, so then it just rolls over to get its belly scratched! Jun 4, 2013
Climbing Ivy
Reno-Tahoe
 
[Hide Comment] varied in size and character from section to section but lots of fun nonetheless.

the thin finger crux is not sustained nor polished and takes bomber gear. may i spill gear betas - green aliens!! Jun 6, 2013
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
[Hide Comment] FYI: I did this with Kevin Leary and Bill Taylor in November 1977. Mar 24, 2016