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Endorphin
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Western Royal Arches
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Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Birthday Girl T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devil Waves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Endorphin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Firefingers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Natural T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tenaya's Tears T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.74872, -119.57264 |
| FA: | Charles Cole and Rusty Reno, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 2,477 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Access Issue: Crack and Rockfall Closure at Serenity Crack & Super Slide Area
Details
From NPS: Rock climbers recently reported a new crack in a cliff on the western side of Royal Arches, near the climbing route Super Slide. Subsequent investigation revealed that this crack has partially detached a large pillar of rock, and that cracking was actively occurring. As a precautionary effort to reduce risk from rockfall, the National Park Service is implementing a temporary area and trail closure starting August 30, 2023.
Description
Adrenaline is a lovely, 50 foot thin crack, but it jogs out right once the crack ends. Charles Cole and I decided that the route would be more elegant if it shot straight up the crag. So we pushed a line that pretty much runs directly from the Adrenaline crack up to the belay at the top of the second pitch of Serenity Crack. The first pitch ascends Adrenaline, then uses a some good holds to launch out into the void of thin face above. We placed a knifeblade in the thin crack ten or so feet above Adrenaline. (It's no longer there -- a bolt would have been better, I guess, but we were broke and were trying to save money on hangers.) Some extreme face moves past a bolt take the leader to easier ground and then a comfortable belay. An easier second pitch links up with Serenity Crack by the tree at the top of the second pitch.
These days the route seems to be neglected. Lots of folks use the belay at the top of the first pitch as a rap point. I'll admit that, like most of the routes I did with Charles Cole in the 1980s, there are some runouts that can discourage. I can't say that Endorphine is a "must do" route, but if you are ticking off the old-school 5.11 face routes in the Valley, then it's worth putting this one on your list.
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