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Devil Waves
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Western Royal Arches
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Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Birthday Girl T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devil Waves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Endorphin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Firefingers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Natural T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tenaya's Tears T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| GPS: | 37.74872, -119.57264 |
| FA: | Bill Price, Clint Cummins and John Tuttle 11/19. |
| Page Views: | 1,995 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | hillbilly hijinks on Mar 24, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Access Issue: Crack and Rockfall Closure at Serenity Crack & Super Slide Area
Details
From NPS: Rock climbers recently reported a new crack in a cliff on the western side of Royal Arches, near the climbing route Super Slide. Subsequent investigation revealed that this crack has partially detached a large pillar of rock, and that cracking was actively occurring. As a precautionary effort to reduce risk from rockfall, the National Park Service is implementing a temporary area and trail closure starting August 30, 2023.
Description
Devil Waves connects the start of Deviltry to the first anchor of Permanent Waves. This very sustained pitch climbs small edges and beautiful stone with good protection throughout. With consent of the FA party of Deviltry one bolt was added to the start of that route taking the former ankle breaker fall out of consideration. 12 bolts. Can be rappelled or TR'd with one 70M on your way down from Tenaya's Tears. Best in Fall after the cascade is dry or nearly so.
Full value Valley Classic slab for climbing and stone quality. Put up by a bunch of ~60yo farts!
Location
This route shares a start with Deviltry for the first two bolts starting right above the Awahnee Cascade stream bed before you reach the terraces of the Devil's Bathtubs. Then step left (crux) to the bolt line heading up to an overlap that must be pulled to reach the first real rest. More sustained and interesting climbing up a golden arete to the anchor.
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