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Super Natural
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Routes in Western Royal Arches
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Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Birthday Girl T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Devil Waves S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Endorphin T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Firefingers T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Natural T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tenaya's Tears T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.74872, -119.57264 |
| FA: | Jake Squier and Camden Clements, Aug 2023 |
| Page Views: | 1,421 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Jake Squier on Nov 8, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Access Issue: Crack and Rockfall Closure at Serenity Crack & Super Slide Area
Details
From NPS: Rock climbers recently reported a new crack in a cliff on the western side of Royal Arches, near the climbing route Super Slide. Subsequent investigation revealed that this crack has partially detached a large pillar of rock, and that cracking was actively occurring. As a precautionary effort to reduce risk from rockfall, the National Park Service is implementing a temporary area and trail closure starting August 30, 2023.
Description
On August 20th, 2023 I was guiding Super Slide and while rappelling down, my ropes got stuck in a crack. As I went down to retrieve them, I couldnt believe what I saw— A brand new perfect finger crack shot 200ft down the cliff! Having guided the route 20+ times I was sure that the crack wasn’t there even just a few weeks prior. That evening, I emailed Greg Stock, the park geologist, who said he would inspect the crack when he got back from Colorado and advised us to be cautious climbing in the area.
So the next day we went back to climb it. Seeing that it is just a tiny crack in a massive buttress of rock, we justified our decision to go for it. We also saw it is a good opportunity to clean loose rock off of Super Slide while there was a warning sign at the base and people were unlikely to be up there. Rain thwarted our first mission, but after work on the evening of Aug 22, we went up, cleaned the crack and climbed it.
Super Natural: From the pitch 3 anchor of super slide, go up 15-20 ft and then traverse left to the incredible super natural splitter. There are a few different options of where you can traverse. When we climbed it in late august ‘23, the crack went from fingers, to thin hands to ring locks, back to fingers, then tips, and then the crack petered out. I placed a purple metolius and then ran it out 20ft to the top of superslide on featured 5.7 slab. The pitch is a full 200ft and probably best to lead it on a 70m rope. We cleaned out some loose blocks, dirt, and crispy edges, but there was one large wobbly pillar near the bottom that should be removed if the climb reopens.
The route saw its second ascent only a few hours later by someone who works at the Ahwahnee and was likely inspired by the signs at the base that read “Warning! New 200ft crack!” The next day, we went back in a party of 4 to climb it and in the next few days a couple other parties climbed it.
When Greg Stock returned, he went up with a climbing ranger to inspect it and they were alarmed to find that the crack was actively cracking and growing as they were up there. He also discovered another new crack on the left side of the buttress growing more diagonally. The area was officially closed and Greg has been closely monitoring the crack ever since. Hopefully one day the crack will stabilize and we can enjoy climbing it. Until then, DO NOT climb in the area and please respect all closures.
**update: crack grew a few inches in width in summer '24 and remains active. What was once a finger crack is now fists. Don't climb in this area!**
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