Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tuttle and Forkash 1986
Page Views: 249 total · 19/month
Shared By: King Tut on Dec 31, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is down and to the right of Permanent Waves and climbs right above the stream bed of the Royal Arches (Awahnee) Cascade. In full flood the cascade will make the start too wet, but once flows subside you can easily step across the small stream to start the route. 5.9+ up to the first bolt (PG-13+) then 5.10 right and upwards. After the 3rd bolt use small roof features to the right to gain face features up to a sucker mantle. Best to not try the mantle and keep face climbing (5.11ish) to the right and step left onto the ledge. The fall is a little sporty but is safe. Original bolts were drilled on lead but have since been replaced by the ASCA. Thanks!

Above the 5th bolt there is more 5.10 to a 2 bolt anchor. The route has not been pushed past this point but is possible on some of the best stone for this type of climbing in the valley. A slab test piece.

Location

Take the gully leading up to the Devil's Bathtubs to the left of Peruvian Flake and before the Serenity scramble. The climb can be seen right above the stream bed for the cascade, so dry conditions advisable. The Tubs are great on a hot day and its 5-10mins from the Awahnee parking.

Protection

Only Draws needed, but the route is not "sport bolted".

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