Deviltry
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 37.74872, -119.57264 |
| FA: | Tuttle and Forkash 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,299 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | King Tut on Dec 31, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This route is down and to the right of Permanent Waves and climbs right above the stream bed of the Royal Arches (Awahnee) Cascade. In full flood the cascade will make the start too wet, but once flows subside you can easily step across the small stream to start the route. 5.9+ up to the first bolt (PG-13+) then 5.10 right and upwards. After the 3rd bolt use small roof features to the right to gain face features up to a sucker mantle. Best to not try the mantle and keep face climbing (5.11ish) to the right and step left onto the ledge. The fall is a little sporty but is safe. Original bolts were drilled on lead but have since been replaced by the ASCA. Thanks!
Above the 5th bolt there is more 5.10 to a 2 bolt anchor. The route has not been pushed past this point but is possible on some of the best stone for this type of climbing in the valley. A slab test piece.



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