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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Eric Beck and Steve Williams, 1971. FFA: Chris Falkenstein and pals, 1972
Page Views: 4,301 total, 32/month
Shared By: Darshan Ahluwalia on Oct 26, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Sunnyside bench sports two 5.10 finger cracks, one just to the left of Jamcrack called Lazy Bum (5.10D) and the other just to the left of this called Bummer (5.10C).

Both cracks share the same first 20 feet, which is a bouldery 5.10b finger crack / face. Going slightly left from here puts you on Bummer 10C, and going right puts you on Lazy Bum 10D.

Both of these climbs are excellent, protect well (micro gear required), and perfect for tuning your thin crack technique. Short and hard.

Protection

Micro nuts essential.
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
There is a perfect #5 RP slot at the top of the crack before the face moves left (sometimes leaves clog the last slot) for excellent pro at the top with minimal run out. These days you can get a thin cam at the rest before the crux, but it takes a #5 RP too there to back it up.

The whole crux goes as face climbing to the right of the crack that is straight forward if you are calm on your feet and use the edge of the crack.

Classic Yosemite test piece thin crack below with lots of great stopper placements and locker finger jams.

2nd pitch solid 5.10c and good climbing. Done rarely though so it may need a nut tool cleaning before climbing it. Jan 2, 2017
You can do a direct finish to the first pitch. Rather than heading left at the top of the crack you can climb straight up to the ledge(5.11b face or so), but it is unprotected. Feb 17, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
The '82 Meyers Guide calls the second pitch .10d, and that's the info I was given when I did it in '78. I thought that was spot on. The thing was cranky, with pro needing to be right where your fingers were. I climbed into the crux, and backed off to rethink my strategy, which ended up being to climb above the protection points and set gear low, clip and move out. I only had a hand full of thin wired nuts, but it did protect...after a fight. ".10a"...No Way, at least not on lead. I never did lead it again, so maybe the sticky rubber and new gear makes it a bit easier, but no THAT much easier...just sayin'... Mar 31, 2015
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
FA was done by Eric Beck and Steve Williams, in 1971. FFA was done by Chris Falkenstein et.al., in 1972. Feb 15, 2015
Will Wilson
Morganton, nc
 
Will Wilson   Morganton, nc
 
I love this route!! Oct 27, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10d
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10d
2nd pitch can be TRed from the 2nd pitch Jamcrack anchor and is a fun climb. A directional is recommended. We used the hanging flake just to the right of Lazy Bum. Jan 25, 2011
Yes, the second pitches of Jam Crack and Lazy Bum crossover at the ledge. Lazy Bum's second pitch felt .10a to me. I could see how one could feel it is harder than that though as the pro is more difficult to place. Offset stoppers work well and I would suggest ending at the chains as opposed to climbing into the tree. Just a cleaner, better way to end the route in my opinion.

If you are just breaking into the grade then split Bummer and Lazy Bum into two pitches. But if you are comfortable on 5.10's then link them. The linkups of these two climbs makes a return to this popular and crowded spot worth while. Mar 23, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Is the second pitch right of Jamcrack's second pitch? If so, yes, I have climbed it. It is a 5.10a that is very devious, techie thin crack/face climb with a penchant for offset cams. For some reason, it was a really hard climb for me and I actually found the first pitch easier. Maybe that was just a bad day though. Mar 23, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10c/d
Don't need micronuts (standard set down to #4 BD works fine) on Lazy Bum. Two blue aliens are nice (one at the bottom starting crack, then one below the crux). Rest at the good stance before the crux, then commit and fire it- forget trying to place gear in the crux or you'll be flying off it anyway. Gear is bomber the entire way.

Anyone climbed the 2nd pitch? Oct 17, 2009