Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Loyd Price, Kim Schmitz. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 14,812 total · 99/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Up on the right side of Sunnyside Bench, climb a nice, smooth, 5.7 jamcrack to a ledge. Step left and continue up a 5.9 thin crack to a two bolt anchor.
Can be done in one or two pitches.


Pro to 2".
Boston, MA
Dennis   Boston, MA
Climbed Jamcrack this weekend for the second time in 10 years. It was so much fun! Best to leave a long sling on the last piece before the ledge and combine P1 and 2. Mar 11, 2008
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Fun Climb! Didn't feel like a Valley 5.9 though-maybe 5.8. Good pro, solid stances and fun climbing. May 21, 2009
Nice, well protected, fun climbing. I'm a fan. Oct 4, 2009
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Great climbing. First pitch is great for budding trad leaders. Oct 17, 2009
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
Fun climb although the nice crack on the second pitch is a little short. You can TR a few fun 10s as well from the top of the 1st pitch. Aug 2, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
I climbed this with an Aussie climber, Harry Burr, and Greg Ervin. I led pitch 1 and Greg took pitch 2. Fun climb, cool and sunny day. Mar 16, 2011
Will Wilson
Morganton, nc
Will Wilson   Morganton, nc
I love the climb but it was soo polished, especially at the beginning of the route. Oct 27, 2011
Worster than you
Lafayette, CA
Worster than you   Lafayette, CA
If the p1 bolts are camped, you can make a good gear anchor at the top of p1 crack w/ 0.5 camelot and the metolius range below that. Mar 24, 2013
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
Personally, I think the hardest part of Jamcrack is the first 15 feet of the first pitch. It's polished and steep for 5.7, and I would call it more 5.8. I think the second pitch is just about as hard as this section (and a little easier than other 5.9 pitches in the valley). Nov 17, 2014
Walt Barker
Reno NV
Walt Barker   Reno NV
for sure, plenty of gear and good feet. Felt stiff for the grade, I think because p-1 ended up being mostly in the loose fingers size range for me....ahhh, so it goes with cracks. Oct 8, 2015
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
NOV. 22, 2015 . LARGE rock fall about 100 ft to the right of Jamcrack. Could have done serious damage to a whole group of climbers if they would have been on those routes. Thankfully no one was there at that time. Just giving a heads up. Nov 23, 2015
My son and I climbed Jam Crack, Bummer, and Lazy Bum on April 8, 2016. We noticed a new huge block of rock (the size of a small car) right at the start of Bummer/Lazy Bum. The block must have fallen this winter. We climbed the routes and found that the anchors on these routes are intact. Apr 9, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Yea, an old classic.

Start is 5.8 thin hands for sure.

2nd pitch, marginal 5.9...I can't think of single Valley pitch lighter for the grade.

Take the trad boots on this one, toes get pinched in Sporto slippers. Jan 2, 2017
Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
One of my all time favorite climbs. Super easy to protect.

Second pitch was easy for the grade. The crux is definitely the thin finger crack right at the end, but there's a hidden jug to the left that helps you finish it. Crux on first pitch seemed to be the first couple moves. The feet are a little polished but you have good jams. Jun 1, 2017
Griffin Ash
Birmingham, AL
Griffin Ash   Birmingham, AL
Can this be done in one pitch with a 70M rope? Mar 6, 2018
Does anyone know what the face climb is immediately to the left of the second pitch? There's only one bolt and very sparse gear but it's super fun! Sep 19, 2018
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
River, that is the second pitch of Bummer. Sep 20, 2018
Taylor Lapeyre
San Francisco, CA
Taylor Lapeyre   San Francisco, CA
Climbing Jamcrack last weekend, two rocks came down directly onto the base of this climb. One was about the size of a golf ball and the other would have easily killed someone. Had people been in the wrong spot, I have no doubt that someone would have been seriously injured or died from rockfall.

Based on the other comments here, this seems to be a fairly common occurrence at this spot — likely because of newer, inexperienced climbers dropping rocks on the upper pitches of Sunnyside Bench above the route. PLEASE be careful climbing at this spot and always wear a helmet at the base. Oct 22, 2018