Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Loyd Price, Kim Schmitz. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Madsen.
Page Views: 12,384 total, 91/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


390 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Up on the right side of Sunnyside Bench, climb a nice, smooth, 5.7 jamcrack to a ledge. Step left and continue up a 5.9 thin crack to a two bolt anchor.
Can be done in one or two pitches.

Protection

Pro to 2".
Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
  5.9-
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
  5.9-
One of my all time favorite climbs. Super easy to protect.

Second pitch was easy for the grade. The crux is definitely the thin finger crack right at the end, but there's a hidden jug to the left that helps you finish it. Crux on first pitch seemed to be the first couple moves. The feet are a little polished but you have good jams. Jun 1, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Yea, an old classic.

Start is 5.8 thin hands for sure.

2nd pitch, marginal 5.9...I can't think of single Valley pitch lighter for the grade.

Take the trad boots on this one, toes get pinched in Sporto slippers. Jan 2, 2017
My son and I climbed Jam Crack, Bummer, and Lazy Bum on April 8, 2016. We noticed a new huge block of rock (the size of a small car) right at the start of Bummer/Lazy Bum. The block must have fallen this winter. We climbed the routes and found that the anchors on these routes are intact. Apr 9, 2016
Kash Dierksheide
Atascadero, California
Kash Dierksheide   Atascadero, California
NOV. 22, 2015 . LARGE rock fall about 100 ft to the right of Jamcrack. Could have done serious damage to a whole group of climbers if they would have been on those routes. Thankfully no one was there at that time. Just giving a heads up. Nov 23, 2015
Walt Barker
Reno NV
  5.9
Walt Barker   Reno NV
  5.9
for sure, plenty of gear and good feet. Felt stiff for the grade, I think because p-1 ended up being mostly in the loose fingers size range for me....ahhh, so it goes with cracks. Oct 8, 2015
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.9-
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.9-
Personally, I think the hardest part of Jamcrack is the first 15 feet of the first pitch. It's polished and steep for 5.7, and I would call it more 5.8. I think the second pitch is just about as hard as this section (and a little easier than other 5.9 pitches in the valley). Nov 17, 2014
Worster than you
Lafayette, CA
Worster than you   Lafayette, CA
If the p1 bolts are camped, you can make a good gear anchor at the top of p1 crack w/ 0.5 camelot and the metolius range below that. Mar 24, 2013
Will Wilson
Morganton, nc
  5.9
Will Wilson   Morganton, nc
  5.9
I love the climb but it was soo polished, especially at the beginning of the route. Oct 27, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.9
I climbed this with an Aussie climber, Harry Burr, and Greg Ervin. I led pitch 1 and Greg took pitch 2. Fun climb, cool and sunny day. Mar 16, 2011
Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
 
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
 
Fun climb although the nice crack on the second pitch is a little short. You can TR a few fun 10s as well from the top of the 1st pitch. Aug 2, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.9
Great climbing. First pitch is great for budding trad leaders. Oct 17, 2009
Nice, well protected, fun climbing. I'm a fan. Oct 4, 2009
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
  5.8
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
  5.8
Fun Climb! Didn't feel like a Valley 5.9 though-maybe 5.8. Good pro, solid stances and fun climbing. May 21, 2009
Dennis
 
Dennis  
 
Climbed Jamcrack this weekend for the second time in 10 years. It was so much fun! Best to leave a long sling on the last piece before the ledge and combine P1 and 2. Mar 11, 2008