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Peter on the final moves of the crux layback...1980.
ID 110269245

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dnaiscool
Mar 31, 2015
Peter on the final moves of the crux layback...1980.  
Peter first led this route in 1978, placing thin nuts for pro...thin cams were not invented...and when he committed to the crux moves he kicked out his one piece of pro. The next piece was now ten feet below. There was a small gathering of climbers cueued up at the base, and Peter heard them all whispering, "Shit... he kicked out his gear." That small blackish bump on the rim of the offset was the key step with the left foot to reach the crux-ending "Thank God" crimper off to the left, and that foothold was forever carved in Peter's mind, because had he slipped off of it, he was in for a BIG drop. He repeated the route again in '96, and that little black nub was as welcome then as it ever was.
At the base in '78 sat Dale Bard. Dale complimented Peter on the heady lead, and advised him to start racking all his wired nuts on a single biner, rather than on individual ones, to hasten gear selection. Peter did this for the rest of his climbing career, which spanned another 34 years.
It is refreshing to see that sticky rubber and the advent of modern gadgetry has not led to the down rating of this route. It is sustained. It is hard. And it is excellent...and it is really convenient to top rope. Mar 31, 2015

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