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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Tucker Tech (late '80s)
Page Views: 454 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This climb can be toproped after leading Tiny Tim, or it is a fairly well protected lead. All the lead bolts and one of the anchor bolts were replaced by the ASCA in 2011.

Start up a right facing corner and then undercling right under a small roof to the first bolt. From here make some very difficult moves to gain the shallow double cracks. The crux is 5.11 and is probably getting harder as the potato-chip edges crumble away. Once you're in the double cracks follow them up and exit to the right of some hummocks and take easier terrain to the anchor.

Protection

Pro to 2" but mostly small stuff. The main difficulties are protected by bolts.

Photos

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Tried this route last week. The beginning is easy but as noted in the description the rock is flaky. There are virtually no holds to get you to the cracks beyond the first bolt above the under-cling section. Jun 14, 2016

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