Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Morris, Scott Cole & Peter Thurston, Oct. 1977
Page Views: 3,391 total · 23/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Start as for Lazy Bum, passing a cruxy 10b move to reach a white knob. Once standing on the white horizontal dike, climb the fingertip crack that protects well with RPs/micronuts. Make a commiting move (10c crux) to gain a thin hands, somewhat flaring crack. The climbing eases to 9+/10a from here to the ledge. The 2-bolt anchor is shared with both Jamcrack and Lazy Bum. Either rap from here to the ground or continue up unremarkable second pitch (5.9), passing a single bolt (replaced 4/99 by the ASCA) 20' up to gain a grassy crack. A single rope rap back to the ledge, and another single rope rap to the ground.


Micronuts/RPs are essential for protecting the thin crux. Additionally, a single set of cams with doubles in the smaller sizes.


George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This route, and "Lazy Bum" can be toproped after doing the first pitch of the "Jamcrack Route". In fact, this is how most people do them. Nov 8, 2006
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
Micro nuts essential. Apr 9, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
As Darshan suggests, this a relatively safe lead with a handful of RPs/micronuts. Aug 17, 2007
Chris M
Hailey, ID
Chris M   Hailey, ID
Crux protects with micro gear. Not as classic as Lazy Bum IMO. Oct 17, 2009
A black alien protects the crux perfectly. If you have a set of aliens and a set of offset stoppers you'll be golden. May 31, 2010
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
My first taste of 5.10's in the valley, sent on TR. Palms sweating just thinking about leading it. Bring the small stuff.

BETA SPOIL, maybe:

If on lead, or TR, nice no hands rest in the wide part of the crack 2/3 the way up. Nov 5, 2012
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
FA was done by Bruce Morris, Scott Cole & Peter Thurston, Oct. 1977, according to my 1982 George Meyers guide. Feb 15, 2015
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
One of my very first 5.10 leads in 1978. No cams or micro nuts. I think a Chouinard #1 or #2 stopper protected the crux that I did as a dyno to the hole.

Was gripped from there to the top, not gonna lie. :) Jan 2, 2017