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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Bruce Morris, Scott Cole & Peter Thurston, Oct. 1977
Page Views: 2,908 total, 22/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Start as for Lazy Bum, passing a cruxy 10b move to reach a white knob. Once standing on the white horizontal dike, climb the fingertip crack that protects well with RPs/micronuts. Make a commiting move (10c crux) to gain a thin hands, somewhat flaring crack. The climbing eases to 9+/10a from here to the ledge. The 2-bolt anchor is shared with both Jamcrack and Lazy Bum. Either rap from here to the ground or continue up unremarkable second pitch (5.9), passing a single bolt (replaced 4/99 by the ASCA) 20' up to gain a grassy crack. A single rope rap back to the ledge, and another single rope rap to the ground.

Protection

Micronuts/RPs are essential for protecting the thin crux. Additionally, a single set of cams with doubles in the smaller sizes.

Photos

King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
One of my very first 5.10 leads in 1978. No cams or micro nuts. I think a Chouinard #1 or #2 stopper protected the crux that I did as a dyno to the hole.

Was gripped from there to the top, not gonna lie. :) Jan 2, 2017
mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
FA was done by Bruce Morris, Scott Cole & Peter Thurston, Oct. 1977, according to my 1982 George Meyers guide. Feb 15, 2015
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
My first taste of 5.10's in the valley, sent on TR. Palms sweating just thinking about leading it. Bring the small stuff.


BETA SPOIL, maybe:

If on lead, or TR, nice no hands rest in the wide part of the crack 2/3 the way up. Nov 5, 2012
A black alien protects the crux perfectly. If you have a set of aliens and a set of offset stoppers you'll be golden. May 31, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Crux protects with micro gear. Not as classic as Lazy Bum IMO. Oct 17, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
As Darshan suggests, this a relatively safe lead with a handful of RPs/micronuts. Aug 17, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
Micro nuts essential. Apr 9, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This route, and "Lazy Bum" can be toproped after doing the first pitch of the "Jamcrack Route". In fact, this is how most people do them. Nov 8, 2006