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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Tim Fitzgerald and Bob Korte (June '66)
Page Views: 618 total · 10/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a worthwhile climb on more featured stone to the right of the Lieback Route and Blackballed.

There are numerous starting variations but probably the most enjoyable is to start by climbing the Guide's Route (5.6 with 2 bolts leading to a bolted anchor 60ft up). Continue climbing through the steeper section just above the anchors and angle up and left to arrive at the single lead bolt on Tiny Tim's second pitch. From there continue up and right to a hummock ledge with a bolted rap anchor. This is all best done as a single pitch.

Above the anchor it is possible to continue to the top of Sunnyside Bench via one or two more pitches of dirty, runout, easy 5th class - but I doubt it would be worth the walk down unless you are planning on climbing something else above the Bench. From the bolted anchor at the hummock ledge 170ft up, it is possible to rappel back to the ground by making two rappels with one 60m rope.

Protection

I only clipped bolts, but you could supplement them with some tiny gear in a few places. Bring a light rack if you plan on climbing the upper pitches.

Photos

When this route was put up in the 60's there were no bolts on the climb, but they did have pitons. When I did it in the mid-70's we weren't using pins so it was all natural pro. The problem was that there wasn't any natural pro so it was undoubtedly X-rated. Times change. Sep 19, 2016
Pitch 1) After passing the second bolt you can clip one of anchor bolts from the route directly to the right of Tiny Tim (Mothballed) with a long runner. Before reaching the chains there is a bomber horizontal finger crack to place a cam into.
Pitch 2) Climbing in a straight line between the belay and the first bolt will yield a couple of small stopper placements in two of the vertical seams.

Since the end is seldom told…
Pitch 3) I do not agree with the Reid guide for the remainder of the route. The first 2/3 of the pitch 3 is dirty. Climbing left off of the belay, up, then arching back right is the cleanest path. Any pro you find in this section will be tiny. The rock quality cleans up over last 1/3 of the pitch. As soon as you can see the double arches aim for the right hand side. This section is way run out, but the climbing is low angle over huge cup shaped features that are actually like steps. You can aim for the arch and protect it if you feel you need it. Belay below and just left of where the two arches meet. Belay takes #1.75 - #4 friends, maybe even larger.
Pitch 4) This is a cool pitch. Step up onto the bottom arch and pull over the top arch with solid holds. Then pick a line to the top. The rock here is amazingly solid, clean, smooth yet with friction, and colorful. The slab climbing is like topping out on domes in the high country, but over indented cups (much like sun cups in low angle snow fields) instead of knobs. Pro is available around the belay at the start, and some of the indented cups may be in-cut enough at the lip to sling a thin cord over. Belay in the grass, at a small rock band, in a single crack with #1.5 - #2 friends. Walk off to the right and up to the Sunnyside Bench trail. Jun 14, 2016