Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: Tim Fitzgerald and Bob Korte (June '66)
Page Views: 945 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a worthwhile climb on more featured stone to the right of the Lieback Route and Blackballed.

There are numerous starting variations but probably the most enjoyable is to start by climbing the Guide's Route (5.6 with 2 bolts leading to a bolted anchor 60ft up). Continue climbing through the steeper section just above the anchors and angle up and left to arrive at the single lead bolt on Tiny Tim's second pitch. From there continue up and right to a hummock ledge with a bolted rap anchor. This is all best done as a single pitch.

Above the anchor it is possible to continue to the top of Sunnyside Bench via one or two more pitches of dirty, runout, easy 5th class - but I doubt it would be worth the walk down unless you are planning on climbing something else above the Bench. From the bolted anchor at the hummock ledge 170ft up, it is possible to rappel back to the ground by making two rappels with one 60m rope.

Protection

I only clipped bolts, but you could supplement them with some tiny gear in a few places. Bring a light rack if you plan on climbing the upper pitches.

Photos