Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Mike White and Ron Cagle - 1970
Page Views: 992 total, 13/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 7, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Both the left and the right side of this pillar could be climbed independently; however this description is for the chimney route directly up the middle.

It is recommended to enter the chimney from the left (west) side. Not much can be said after that as this is a pure chimney. Wiggle, stem, bridge, whatever you have to do to move upward. The granite behind the pillar is surprisingly good quality in some places, and the moves are enjoyable. Proceed from stack to stack, with good stances and rests at each block. When the forth stack is reached, a question will need to be answered. Climb straight up and tunnel through a hole (5.7) to the top, or leave the security of the chimney for a wild looking route out left?

Location

This formation is on the very far right side of Sunnyside Bench and can be difficult to see. Good views can be had from Degnan's and other areas of Yosemite Village.

From the talus slope directly up from the government stables, walk up the faint Sunnyside Bench Trail. (The start of it can easily be found on the left side of the talus slope.) When the second tier of Sunnyside Bench is reached, follow the trail west, passing two sections of class 2+. Shortly after the second section of difficulty, break off of the trail and slog up a dirty slope aiming for the left side of the pillar. A boulder will have to be climbed over with the aid of mazanita branches to reach the blocks at the base of the pillar.

Protection

A single set to 4" will get you to the top of this one. From the ground, the horizontal stacks look like they will take pro. However, besides a 3.5 friend between the second and third stack, this is not the case. Much of the pro on the bottom of the pitch will be pulled into the chimney from the sides. So bring some long slings. Rappel off the left (west) side with two ropes from a slung tree on the slope above the top of the pillar.

0 Comments