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Butthole Climbers
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 1.8 from 10
votes
Routes in Sunnyside Bench
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Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lemon (Direct Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prune Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ribald T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sultans of Sling T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 37.7507, -119.59446 |
| FA: | John Tuttle and Brian Bennett 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,925 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | King Tut on Jan 1, 2017 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This is the route just to the right of the Sunnyside Bench regular route approach gulley and it climbs the wall just around the corner and just above the lower falls trail.
Thin cranking moves off the ground (2 bolts) lead to a committing step across into a stem. Fingery pulls on vertical ground (5.10) gain a scoop and the 3rd bolt. You probably don't want to blow these moves or creative belaying is going to have to save you from a deck from about 20'. Straight above is another scoop with an RP crack at the top of your reach that protects 5.9 moves up to a ramp that has a bolt at the top. Don't blow these moves either. 5.10A past that bolt out right gains the upper corner (5.9, shared with Sultans of Sling) that has good gear (small cams and med nuts) to a final move of 5.9, well protected with a medium stopper in a pod, to gain the huge ledge at the top.
Alternately, a TR can be arranged by scrambling up the gulley to the left with a second rope to extend the Tree (iirc) anchor to the lip.
High quality, thought provoking and challenging climbing that makes you feel like you did a full rock climb, not a mindless clip up you can't remember a week later.
That's how I remember it anyways. :)
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