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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: John Tuttle and Brian Bennett 1986
Page Views: 397 total · 19/month
Shared By: King Tut on Jan 1, 2017
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is the route just to the right of the Sunnyside Bench regular route approach gulley and it climbs the wall just around the corner and just above the lower falls trail.

Thin cranking moves off the ground (2 bolts) lead to a committing step across into a stem. Fingery pulls on vertical ground (5.10) gain a scoop and the 3rd bolt. You probably don't want to blow these moves or creative belaying is going to have to save you from a deck from about 20'. Straight above is another scoop with an RP crack at the top of your reach that protects 5.9 moves up to a ramp that has a bolt at the top. Don't blow these moves either. 5.10A past that bolt out right gains the upper corner (5.9, shared with Sultans of Sling) that has good gear (small cams and med nuts) to a final move of 5.9, well protected with a medium stopper in a pod, to gain the huge ledge at the top.

Alternately, a TR can be arranged by scrambling up the gulley to the left with a second rope to extend the Tree (iirc) anchor to the lip.

High quality, thought provoking and challenging climbing that makes you feel like you did a full rock climb, not a mindless clip up you can't remember a week later.

That's how I remember it anyways. :)

Location

Just slightly uphill from the lower falls trail, just to the right of the Sunnyside Bench reggae route approach gully.

Protection

Gear to 2". 4 bolts.

Photos

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King Tut
Citrus Heights
  5.10c/d
King Tut   Citrus Heights
  5.10c/d
Named after a great band the Butthole Surfers:

youtube.com/watch?time_cont… Jan 1, 2017

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