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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 700 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Feb 20, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a great climb up a beautiful section of the wall that also happens to be about 40ft from one of the most popular walkways in Yosemite Valley. If you climb this on a weekend, you can expect to draw a large crowd.

Start by scrambling up a ramp that leads in from the left, and then step out onto the face and climb the arete of a small right-facing corner. There is some gear to be had in the corner itself. From here climb up to a faint arch and then up and left past two bolts on nicely featured stone. The final crux is more blank but protects with a good small cam in a crack. From this ledge, move right and do a boulder problem to reach a second ledge (watch the loose rock). There is a single bolt anchor here which you can back up with gear.

There is a newer variation which has been added to the left of this route. From the arete in the beginning, move left to a bolt and continue up and left on the face with a few more bolts. Towards the end you traverse right along a dike to rejoin the climb at it's final crux. Be sure to extend the final bolt, before the traverse. This variation takes some of the bite out of the "R" rating. This is not to be confused with Stretch Mark (5.11b) which is the bolted line still further left.

To descend, downclimb the 2nd/3rd class gully to the left (the lower section of the Sunnyside Bench Route)

Protection

Pro to 1" but mostly small.

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bmdhacks
5.9+ X
bmdhacks  
5.9+ X
This is the kind of 5.9R that you should feel comfortable free-soloing hard 5.9. At least, the way my partner and I climbed it, the last good pro ended way way below the cruxy final move of the climb. And the last move was hard.

Maybe we were off route, but getting off the mungy ledge just below anchor bolt involved sidepulling and crimping super sharp flakes that tended to just come off the wall.

It may be possible to toprope this climb with an 80m rope, but definitely not with a 70. It'd be a really fun toprope for the grade. Oct 22, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
All of those routes, Raisin and those to the West are very good climbing on nice featured rock with thought provoking moves.

When you get to the top of one you feel like you have done a full rock climb. Jan 1, 2017
IMO the best face pitch for the grade in the Valley.

In 12+ years living in yosemite I have never seen anyone on it. What does that say for the popularity of R rated climbs. Kinda too bad. Great fun climbing with cool features. Also FYI, the pitch isn't over til it's over. Apr 14, 2013