Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 40,475 total · 226/month
Shared By: Linnea Williams on Oct 4, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

One of the easiest multi-pitch climbs in the Valley and the most direct way to the top of Lower Yosemite Falls. Heads up for water running on the 1st pitch during early season.

Climb Class 3 to the beginning of P1, climb into the squeeze chimney for 10-15' and go left over the flake (look for gear in the wide crack on the left of the flake!). Carry on to a tree on the right and belay. About 80' and 5.2.

For P2, don't go up the obvious gully! Go right to obvious cracks and climb to another tree. About 100' and Class 4. 

From this tree, P3 heads up a 4th class crack towards another tree. At the tree move right for the base of the crux. Pick your adventure, either unprotected 5.4 jugs on the right or straight up the 5.5 crack/corner. After this follow a flake right to a tree. An easy hand-crack above the tree will take you to larger trees for your anchor. All in all 5.4/5.5 and 150'.

Descent: Option 1 - continue up low-angle slabs for 300' to the climbers trail. Follow that trail to the right and down climb the gully to get back to the Valley. It will take you anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes to get back to the Lower Yosemite Falls trail. Option 2 - three rappels down the obvious gully that you can see from your 2nd belay station. The first rappel station is located at the very top of that gully. To find the first rappel station look to the left as you finish the route, it's at the top of the gully. Please be careful of loose rock at the top of this climb and on the walk off. There are many popular routes under this, and a careless step could easily kill someone below. 

Location Suggest change

on the left side of Sunnyside Bench, around the corner from Jamcrack, etc.

Protection Suggest change

Regular rack (one #4 cam is helpful but not essential) and some smaller pieces.