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Routes in Sunnyside Bench

Blackballed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blueballed T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bummer T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Butthole Climbers T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Jamcrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lazy Bum T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lieback Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lingering Lie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Mothballed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Prune T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pygmy Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raisin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sunnyside Bench Regular Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sunnyside Pinnacle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiny Tim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,936 total, 151/month
Shared By: Linnea Williams on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Sunnyside Bench, Regular Route is one of the easiest multi-pitch climbs in the Valley. It is an awesome first lead due its varied climbing challenges (bouldering, face, chimney, off-width, corner, traverse) and gear placements (micro-cams to #4 Camalot). It also offers one of the most direct ways to the top of Lower Yosemite Falls. During the early season, watch out for running water on the 1st pitch and on the rappel down.

Pitch 1 (5.2, 80'): From the end of the Class 3 section, rope up and climb into the squeeze chimney. This chimney is pretty narrow and may be hard to manage with a pack. Follow the chimney for 10-15' and go left over the flake. The wide crack on the left of the flake is probably the first spot where you can place gear (a larger cam). Continue up the crack until the big tree on your right. This is your anchor!

Pitch 2 (4, 100'): From the 2nd belay station near the big tree, you will see the obvious gully that goes straight up the formation. DO NOT be tempted to go there. While it is climbable and not very hard, it is not the route you're here to do. It is unaesthetic and not very interesting. Also, early in the season it will have a lot of mungey wet spots. Instead traverse right and up, following obvious cracks. Climbing here is easy, exposed and very enjoyable. After negotiating a couple of headwalls, ledges and bouldering problems (aka "the tricky bouldering problem" in SuperTopo), you'll arrive at the 3rd belay station at another big tree.

Pitch 3 (5.4-5.5, 150'): From the 3rd belay station you can see the first 80 or so feet of the 3rd pitch. At first you'll continue up an easy crack (4th class) to another tree. This will take you to the base of the crux. From here you can either go slightly to the right over 5.4 jugs (unprotected), or continue straight up into the 5.5 crack/corner, which is a bit too wide for hand jams, but still easy going. The well-protected corner is probably a better alternative to the run-out jugs, even though it is a little bit harder. Make sure to extend your placements with slings in this section. Once you handle the crux, you may be surprised to find a steep unprotected face right above you. Don't let it intimidate you and don't go that way, look to your right. You'll see a tiny ledge (1-2" wide) that extends across the face to a small tree. Follow that ledge until you are directly below that tree. If you experience a lot of rope drag, you can set up a belay station here. Follow the 5th class hand-crack above the tree all the way up until the easier ground. Use one of the larger trees for your anchor and enjoy the views!

Descent: A couple of options exist here. You can continue up low-angle slabs for 250-300' until you find the climbers trail. Follow that trail to the right and down climb the gully to get back to the Valley. It will take you anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes to get back to the Lower Yosemite Falls trail. Though the trail seems to disappear at times, just keep going and don't lose faith.

Another option will require three rappels down the obvious gully that you can see from your 2nd belay station. The first rappel station is located at the very top of that gully. To find it, look to the left as you finish the route. Bring your own slings to be safe, the ones I saw didn't look very good.

Location

on the left side of Sunnyside Bench, around the corner from Jamcrack, etc.

Protection

Regular rack (one #4 cam is helpful but not essential) and some smaller pieces.
Nick Leiby
  5.5
Nick Leiby  
  5.5
For what it's worth, I thought:
  • The climb itself was only ok. But if you take into account the easy grade, it had nice exposure and continuous class 5 movement. I'm only an average climber and did it in approach shoes, 2 pitches from bottom to top with a 70m, in under 1 hour.
  • As an approach to the pools at the falls, it was 4 star for sure. We had the pools to ourselves on a hot, sunny, day, and they were amazing and icy cool.
  • The descent comments here seem to also be adjusted for the grade of the climb. If you've done other Yosemite approaches and descents, this was casual. Exposed 3rd class, but if you follow the cairns out PAST the talus field, switching back down to the talus field through trees, it isn't too bad. We descended in 20 minutes back to the Loop Trail behind the stables, and we were not hurrying. Maybe some of the commenters descended down the talus gully too soon?
Oct 22, 2017
Mark VanMiddlesworth
Boston, Massachusetts
 
Mark VanMiddlesworth   Boston, Massachusetts
 
Awesome approach to the pools. And it's real climbing, which is hard to find at this grade: hand jams, chimneys, smearing traverses, and I even threw in a finger lock or two!

Not sure why everyone is complaining about the descent... it took us about 30min, and was probably the easiest descent we did the entire time in the valley. Oct 22, 2017
Frank LaForge
Incline Village, NV
  5.5
Frank LaForge   Incline Village, NV
  5.5
The climbing itself was only okay, but visiting the pools above Lower Yosemite Falls make it well worth it. We had wanted to take a dip, the water was painfully cold in mid-October. Anyhow, this was a nice "active-recovery" climb/hike. Oct 16, 2017
davidhousky
Lake Forest, CA
  5.5
davidhousky   Lake Forest, CA
  5.5
If you're like me, and found the comments on descending pretty vague, here's hopefully a less vague description on getting to the lower falls pools and descending.

Getting to the lower falls pools:
From the top of pitch 3, you have the option of either topping out or keeping a keen eye out for the horizontal climber's trail that runs across the ascent (it's easy to miss if you're focused on climbing).
-Topping out involves 250-300' of dirty choss scrambling upwards and is not very fun. Once you reach the top, hug the slab and go right down an obvious gully. At the bottom of this gully it turns into a downwards gully that goes to the cliff. Follow this down till you see the obvious climber's trail to the right, and take that trail.
-If you were looking out for the climber's trail on the way up the choss, you should've spotted it in less than 100' of scrambling up. This is the same trail taken in the first option - if you are facing upwards, take this trail left towards the falls. It is pretty obvious the whole way, although there's a couple offshoot trails that dead end pretty quickly. Once you see the pools below, just walk down and slightly right across the slab, then sharp left near the bottom for an easy boulder downclimb. Time to enjoy cool, refreshing water and amazing views!

Once you've enjoyed the falls to your hearts content, there are a few descent options:
-If you brought two 70m ropes, you can rappel down the falls from the station near the waterfall itself.
-If you brought one 70m rope, you can walk back to the route itself, downclimb a bit and rappel from trees either down the way you came up, or sharp right over the cliff into the gully (this sharp right is from the top of pitch 3). There are some hidden-ish rappel rings in the gully as well. While this can be done with one 70m rope, we hit the ends of our rope twice and had to use some smaller trees as intermediate rappel stations, so I don't necessarily recommend this option.
-Walk off by taking the climber's trail in the other direction. I did not take this option, so can't give very detailed instructions, but I was told it is past the gully I described in the beginning. You should be able to see a talus field as well as the stables if you go this way. This is the "sketchy" descent described in the comments multiple times. Sep 12, 2017
Sarah Kolbe
Madison, WI
  5.5
Sarah Kolbe   Madison, WI
  5.5
The route itself was great, especially after the first pitch. Nice views and pleasant climbing.

We descended via the climbers' trail, which we had no trouble locating at the top of the climb. My partner, who had done this route before, did not recall it being as sketchy as described in the Mountain Project comments. It was. One wrong step on the loose, slippery dirt of the trail could easily send one fatally sliding right over the cliff in several places. I'd recommend using a different descent option or roping up. Sep 5, 2017
Left my backpack (black diamond creek 50) at the base of the climb and when I came back down it was gone. If anyone finds it in the area I would love love love to get it back. Some of the contents of the bag were scattered in the area I left it so I'm assuming it could of been animals so just a heads up to people be careful if you leave your pack at the base. Lost the back 8/6/17. If anyone finds it please contact me at (707) 849-8771. Thank you! Aug 6, 2017
Zach Christensen
Baltimore, MD
Zach Christensen   Baltimore, MD
Did anyone find two fresh bolts/hangers on a slab on the third pitch (not the bent ones mentioned earlier, those were about 30' after these new ones)? Is that a variation? First multi pitch for the both of us so not sure if this is common but it seemed extremely wandering and not super obvious but the climbing is super easy so you feel relatively safe, not sure we strictly stuck to the route even but I found it to be mostly uninteresting but the view is incredible!! Apr 4, 2017
yosem1te
  5.5
yosem1te  
  5.5
This is a nice route, but the 3rd pitch is long and has some pretty heavy rope drag by the time you get to the belay tree. Additionally, from where the third pitch ends to where the walk off trail starts is a little less than a pitch worth of climbing. It's exposed and there aren't a ton of places to place gear. Not sure if I missed something, but I didn't see anything in the supertopo book about that. Other than that, great route with great views, especially from the belay ledge at the top of pitch 2. Aug 28, 2016
Steven Higdon
Portland, OR
Steven Higdon   Portland, OR
I did this climb for the first time over Spring Break, and while the exposure was a blast, the stream running down the first pitch made for some sketchy placements.

From the top of the route, try to veer right relatively soon to find the hiker trail back down, as the route beta we had led us up to the bottom off the slam beside the pools, and as a result a loose dirt and rock slide back down to the hiker trail.

I also recommend the left facing 5.5 variation over the 5.4 face climb. Apr 14, 2016
kswissto
Boulder, CO
 
kswissto   Boulder, CO
 
The descent was really sketchy - probably a combination of overuse, erosion, and drought. We roped up a few times - not because we were uncomfortable with the close, steep dropoffs - but because the loose dirt was unpredictable and small slides were happening all around us. In the future I'll be looking for the rappels on this route. Or rapping the route from trees. This is one instance in which rappelling may actually be safer than hiking.

There are newish looking bolts that have been banged in (read: unusable) at the top of the last pitch. So we ended up going all the way to the top.

Not sure this route is good for a new leader as it requires savvy when protecting (a lot of loose rock, a lot of dangerous placements that may look good) and route finding. A wandering route with plenty of opportunity to create rope drag. Also, the 5.0 slab at the top is sketchy because it is incredibly dirty and isn't protectable. Be very comfortable climbing slab when topping out on this route.

Do the 5.5 variation (left-facing corner/crack system) for more pro and lots of fun! Felt right at home for this Gunks climber.

PS - SuperTopo forums have more info on the descent. Read it before doing it. I wish I did. Sep 21, 2015
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
Climbed it today.

1st pitch is super easy. Avoid the loose looking boulder at the top by doing some chimney moves next to it and then going over to the left ramp.

2nd pitch is easy 4th. Next time i would solo it. Ends at a ledge with anchor opportunities (or continue up to one of the trees and belay).

3rd pitch is the best, it follows a 5.5 corner (a few stem moves) and finishes with a really cool and easy, but also exposed, traverse to another tree. If rope drag is bad or there are parties above you then make a belay here. However the belay is not very comfortable and your kinda hanging/standing on a small ledge.

Finish of by climbing easy low 5th class cracks to the top of some slabs.

Descend: climb exposed slabs (be careful, they're easy but a slip could be fatal in some spots) to the top and find a climbers trail heading right. This trail is covered in brush. Follow this trial until you reach an obvious gully. You will pass many drop offs with trails heading over to them but these drops aren't your exit points. Scramble down the gully to the main trail, turn right, and head back to the falls.

You can also rappel instead of hiking around but we did not do this option.

Gear: I had a set of nuts (4-10), a set of cams (.3-4) with doubles of .75-3, this was more than enough to get to the top comfortably. Ditch the quick draws and bring around 10 or so slings. Mar 9, 2015
Jason Schmidt
Ghent, MN
Jason Schmidt   Ghent, MN
other descent option: since you should go swim in the falls anyway you can rappel from the falls area. In the above photo (Brian's) you will see a fixed line that you can follow to the edge of the cliff. There are 3 rappel stations on the cliff. You can reach the first with two 60m ropes, and you can do another single rope rappel to the 3rd rappel station, or possibly go to the ground(unconfirmed). The lowest station is further to the side and makes it easier to avoid landing in the water at the base. I have got to the lowest station with two 60m ropes (they almost reach, but don't), but it required some shenanigans and could be a great way to kill yourself in front of a bunch of families taking pictures on the bridge if you don't have experience and are out on one of your first climbs. Two 70m ropes will get you down in 2 rappels easy(confirmed while doing middle earth). This option does not exist in spring or during periods of higher water. there are no chains, so extra material to back up the threaded bolts may be useful if they look sketch. Aug 9, 2013
Did this route yesterday for the first time. Was initially questioning whether the route was worthwhile considering its supposed lack of challenge and some of the comments about the descent. I have had my share of epic descents (e.g. North Dome Gully - sometimes you find it easily then, a few years later - "where the hell is it?"). The pitches are short but the route was fun, with some route finding challenge. We had no problem following the instructions in the guide book about the descent. Just ascend more or less straight up until a narrow but well trod climbers trail is encountered. Follow the trail east - take your time. The trail does get a bit faint in spots but is easy to follow. After a few hundred yards or so you should be able to see the maintenance yards or stables below you. You will also see below you a rockfall/wash or drainage. Do not go directly down the drainage. Continue following the trail a bit further, it will gradually start to descend and then doubles back toward the drainage. Then the trail serpentines (some boulder-hopping) down the drainage to the ground depositing you behind the stables. The descent took 40 minutes. May 21, 2013
Dann R
Hermosa Beach, ca
5.5
Dann R   Hermosa Beach, ca
5.5
Wow. First route ever in Yosemite. I printed the description and used it. A few tips to description above of 10' to 15' up the chimney. It's not feet. STAY IN THE CHIMNEY for about 100 feet. The tree will be right there. Sling it and bring up your partner. Head out to the exposed rock platform with nice holds and feel your jaw drop at the views of the valley. Head up past the manzanita and do the boulder move. The second tree is right there. Go up the crack with jugs and STOP when the crack ends. Nice foot hold on your right. Place pro in that crack. MOVE TO THE RIGHT. DO NOT GO UP THE EXPOSED AND RUN OUT FACE! It was terrifying. The team in front of us told me that I missed the slight traverse to the right that leads into juggy holds. Whoops. I made it though.
We walked around for a half hour til we found one of the most sketchy trails I have ever seen in me life. If the tallus had slid we would have slid to our deaths. Two old geezers just walked on past but we decided to rope up. Perhaps I have grown too attached to this life.... Apr 12, 2013
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
 
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
 
A fun solo. Cool views. Dang ants be all up in yo bidniss on the final crack.

If for P3 you go left up a sorta flake ramp thing instead of right to the 5.5 crack or 5.4 face, there is a rapp station with two newish bolts/hangers and rings. This would deposit you in the gully you started up.

The hike out isn't too bad. Then again, it's still technically winter so it may be a bit more bare than usual.

A fun climb I find myself doing on a regular basis to get away from people. Go for it. Feb 28, 2013
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
Only a couple of "5.5" moves getting to the second belay, "am I supposed to climb this tree?". Not that cool of a route. Would of had fun spending time on something else. Nov 5, 2012
agd
agd  
Did this route with my wife on July 28. When looking for a route in the morning on a hot summer day, this is a good choice -- the majority will be shaded, and all the belays have shade.

As for the Pitch 3 5.4 face/jugs climbing variation, contrary to the info there are in fact protection opportunities where it matters -- Yellow TCU fits perfectly in a pin scar. While a tad runout (hardly), you plug the pro before the "crux" move so it feels very safe. I highly recommend going this way -- very fun.

Be careful on the descent because it is quite sketchy. Lots of very loose dirt/leaves/rock that, if you were to slip you would surely be a goner. The descent about two hours in total to get back to the bottom of Sunnyside Bench. To descend in less than an hour would be pretty reckless. Jul 30, 2012
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
The walkoff, especially in its current, early-season state, is a strong counter argument to doing this route. Do you need two ropes to rappel?

Also, the 5.5 variation can add a lot of ropedrag, so sling accordingly. May 19, 2012
Colin Schour
Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Colin Schour   Big Bear Lake, CA
 
Great first Yosemite multi-pitch climb for beginners. The last pitch is fun and exposed, but make sure to traverse right after the jugs. If you start heading up slab and hit a bolt, you're going the wrong way. Hike all the way up to the upper falls and hit the lower falls pools for a truly "Five-star experience." Apr 30, 2012
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
  Easy 5th
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
  Easy 5th
It’s funny how 4th class gullies are the most awkward climbing. That would sum up the first 90’ on this climb. Pleasant easy 5th once you leave the gully. Long walk off! Feb 8, 2012
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Spectacular route, easy climbing but great views, engaging, and not likely to ever be crowded like every other route in the valley on a warm weekend. Oct 10, 2011
Brian Snider
NorCal
  5.5
Brian Snider   NorCal
  5.5
I give this a 5 star classic ratting if you make the trip to the pools.
Anything less and your missing the point of climbing. Aug 10, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.5
Saw a beautiful King Snake right at the base of the climb! I'm glad it's been upgraded to 5.5 from Roper's "5.0." Mar 15, 2011
Devin Shunk
  5.5
Devin Shunk  
  5.5
Strange first pitch on this one. The next two pitches are fun. The walkoff descent is easy to miss and can lead to some interesting downclimbing in spots. Sep 11, 2010
England
?
  5.4
England   ?
  5.4
I don't think there is more than a handful of moves on this route that rates a 5.5. Careful route finding is needed on the fourth pitch, go right at the, "V" slot. May 10, 2010