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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: (TR) Todd Swain, October 1989, FL: Chris Miller, 1998
Page Views: 671 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 20, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climbs a steepening slab to vertical headwall (5.11) before entering a steep but featured crack system (5.8). Angle left to the chain anchors on Get Right or Get Left, or gear belay and scramble/climb left to access the anchors to rap (100' rap!).

Note: A huge piece of rock has fallen from this route making it much harder than it's original 5.10a rating.

Enjoyable climbing on quality rock, and in a locale that sees little traffic make this a good tick for the grade if in the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

Protection

4 bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5"

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C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The newest Joshua Tree guide (JT West) mistakenly lists this as having only three bolts. Oct 20, 2006
...and Vogel didn't even have you listed for the FA(Lead) Chris!! LOL Where's the love? Oct 24, 2006
Randy  
What is with that Vogel guy anyway?

Actually, a guide is only as good as the info provided by others -- I don't personally climb every route.

Any omission was purely unintentioned. Oct 25, 2006
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
A major portion of the roof below bolt #4 has fallen off making this route much harder than 5.10a. To keep the route at it's original 5.10a rating traverse left into Get Right or Get Left after clipping the 4th bolt and then back right when able to latch the fin which leads into the right crack system. The route still goes direct but is about 5.11 or so and not as enjoyable as before. Oct 5, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11b
Thanks for the info Chris - that certainly explains it - I did this route today (12/6/08) and immediately knew I wasn't in 5.10a territory, felt like 5.11 to me too, Also, clipping the quickdraw at the fourth bolt - pretty tricky... Dec 6, 2008
Climbed this on Thanksgiving and pulled the flake off directly under the 4th bolt. It was super loose and cracked as I tried to get a foot on it. Not sure what the route technically goes at now, but traversing left into Get Right or Get Left is probably the way to go. Nov 26, 2017

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